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January 2007 Wine Tasting Notes: 2003 Ventana Vineyards Due Amici, Monterey, Arroyo Seco.
Estate grown and bottled, this wine is aged in a blend of French and American oak. The term 'Super Tuscan' is said to have been coined by an English journalist to validate the richer blends of Italian varietals with Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. As winemakers experimented, the Italian white varietals used in blending were replaced with Bordeaux reds to give the blends more body and character. Under Italy's controlled system of appellations, these blends were initially ranked with the poorest quality wines: vino da tavola ("table wine") but have since gained legitimacy. This is a 50%-50% blend of Cabernet sauvignon and Sangiovese. Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the 'big five' of Bordeaux reds usually shows black currant, blackberry and black cherry flavors and can take on herbal and bell pepper, asparagus and olive characteristics - particularly with age as well as in certain climates and with some farming practices. It is also more tannic (which in youth can give a graphite-like characteristic), longer lived and less approachable in youth than Cabernet Franc. Sangiovese is the staple grape of Chianti where it is generally blended with the red grapes Canaiolo and Colorino and the white Trebbiano. The name originates from the latin: Sanguis Jovis, which means: “blood of Jupiter". Sangiovese gives fruity, moderately acidic wines with a medium body. Most commonly expressed are aromas and flavors of strawberry, blueberry, orange peel and, occasionally, plums. The 2003 year was marked by climatic challenges that kept growers and vineyard managers on their toes. Reported early bud break, rain during fruit set and August heat were part of the 2003 roller coaster but at harvest time, temperatures became moderate. Despite the ups and downs, the resulting crop was one of particularly dense and flavorful fruit. Ventana ("window" in Spanish) was founded by Doug Meador in the early 1970s. A former Navy pilot from a family of Washington apple farmers, he became fascinated with cold-climate viticulture while supervising the planting of 2,500 acres of grapes in the Arroyo Seco area of Monterey County. He purchased and planted the current 400 acre property. He became a pioneer and champion of Monterey wine. In September 2006, The Meadors sold the Ventana brand, vineyards, winery and tasting room to a group of local winemakers and grape growers who make up Ventana Vintners, LLC. Doug is still involved with and present at Ventana (which continues his legacy) but is concentrating on his namesake label: Meador as well as other projects. Ventana Vineyard’s lead winemaker is Reggie Hammond (he retains that position after the recent transfer of ownership). He was brought in by Doug Meador to manage the vineyards, winery operations and to develop Ventana's red wine portfolio while continuing the line up of white wines at the standard of quality Dough had established. He applies a "keep it simple and don't screw it up" approach to achieve the Ventana winemaking philosophy. Ventana aims to craft "European sensibility and an abundance of California fruit" at a good value. This means affordable wines with distinct varietal characteristics. The frame of mind is to be "wine-growers" not grape growers.
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