January 2007 Wine Tasting Notes:
2004 Ampelos Syrache, Santa Barbara County.
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This wine is deep garnet in color. The nose starts with smoky chocolate and coca powder notes. Opulent dusty raspberry aromas and "Red Vines"-like strawberry are buttressed by light pepper and tobacco notes. The palate offers raspberry-and-cream and cherry-like flavors. The Red Vines character is also present on the palate. Lush and medium bodied, this blend offers curvy but supple tannins and good acidity. A medium length finish offers cherry and raspberry and just a hint o licorice. |
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RWB Score: 90 breakdown 15.1% Alcohol $28.00 Retail (from winery); 210 cases and 36 magnums made |
Soft, velvety and feminine, the 2004 Ampelos Cellars Syrahe has structure and curves. It successfully emulates Rhône blends with smooth, seamless structure, fleshy, juicy fruit extraction and spice. Versatile as a social, or cuddle-up wine and as a pairing with barbecue, it should taste fruity and fresh through 2009 and evolve mature characteristics through 2012. |
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More Ampelos Cellars reviews. More on Sta. Rita Hills AVA More on Santa Barbara County AVA |
Composition: Harrison-Clarke Vineyard Grenache, Harrison-Clarke, Alisos Vineyard and Ampelos estate Syrah. Both these varieties were harvested in several passes for optimal ripeness. The Harrison-Clarke Syrah was co-fermented with 250 pounds of Ampelos estate Viognier. This boils down to a blend of 24% warm climate Syrah, 49% cool climate Syrah and 27% Grenache with a touch of Viogneir. Following very meticulous handling, the separate batches of this blend underwent malolactic fermentation and aging for an unspecified time in a mixed regimen of 35% new French (Sirugue, Remond, and T.W. Boswell) and hybrid (made of both French and American wood) oak barrels and racked twice before bottling
Keeping in the California tradition of labeling wines with the component varieties, Ampelos Cellars has combined the names Syrah and Grenache in naming this Rhône-styled blend.
Although it is generally thought of as a Rhône variety Grenache (Grenache Noir and its relatives Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris) originates from Spain where it is called “Garnacha” where there is twice as much planted as in France. In fact, it is currently the most widely planted red wine variety in the world and goes by many names, depending where it is grown. It has some history in California as it is reported to have been used in the jug wines of the Central Valley for decades, third only to Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. It is only now coming into its own as a varietal and in blends, in no small part due to the successes of the Rhône Rangers. Traditionally, it has been used as a component of red blends (typically in the Northern Rhône), usually as the grape for Rhône rosés and as the main component component in most Southern Rhône red blends. In Spain, it is the main component of red blends from the Rioja and Catalonia. It is a sturdy, prolific variety (hence its utility in the Central Valley jug wines) and tolerates dry and hot climates. Grenache makes for softer, less intensely colored, fruity varietal wines often described as ‘fleshy’, ‘fruity’ and ‘heady’. Hence its versatility in blending: it can soften tannic Syrahs and fill out thinner wines. Its distinct sweet, ‘dusty’ and ’fleshy’ mouthfeel is typically supported by flavors of black currants, cherry, licorice and strawberry. Barrel aging can impart vanilla notes. With a heavier oak regiment it can become smoky. Bottle aging will see this variety fading relatively quickly and displaying dried fruit flavors. Despite the tannin and acids, Grenache is not known for its longevity.
Syrah is an ancient varietal proven by DNA analysis (in part at UC Davis) to be a native of the northern Rhône region of France. Prior to this evidence, its origin was disputed between the Rhône region and that around the Persian city of Shiraz – hence the two names for the grape. Syrah gives tannic and spicy red wines with significant longevity. Because of its weight, it contributes body and structure to blends with the softer, fruitier Grenache and Mourvèdre. In the southern Rhône, these varieties make up the core of Châteauneuf du Pape reds. Syrah not only needs hot climates but thrives in them - as its rapid propagation in California and Australia demonstrates. It is also widely grown in the southern portion of Oregon, Washington and South Africa. It was first planted in California in 1971 from cuttings from the Hermitage appellation in northern Rhône and Australian Shiraz cuttings (which are said by some to be of Hermitage origin themselves). Current reports indicate total California Syrah acreage to be approaching 13,000 acres. The thick-skinned, very darkly pigmented grapes give inky, deep colored wines described as violet or nearly black. Syrah is very tannic, rich, chewy and textured and is typified by high alcohol and a spice-over-fruit character. The latter tends to be more accentuated in cooler climates where the grapes develop a higher skin-to-pulp ratio. This can be nicely demonstrated by tasting Syrahs from growers spanning the north-south gamut of the Central Coast regions. Although expressivity may vary slightly between different clones, Syrah typically shows black (sometimes white) pepper, licorice, clove, thyme and bay leaf as part of its spice component. The dark fruit typically expressed are blueberries, black currants and blackberries. Syrah may also show cedar or sandalwood notes. As with just about all wines, bottle age brings out terroir and cedar, tobacco, earth and leathery notes.
Viognier is a Rhône varietal rapidly becoming popular in California. In addition to being offered as a single varietal, it is often blended with Roussanne to make white Rhône blends and is also used in that region (and in California) to soften Syrah and Syrah-based red blends. It is being experimented with in unconventional blends with Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. At its best, it shows perfumed floral aromas with tropical fruit flavors and a rich, almost viscous mouthfeel with a prominent mineral element. It is less apt to take on dominant oak characteristics than Chardonnay. Aromas and flavors typical of Viognier include: Acacia, Anise, Apricot, Guava, Honey, Kiwi, Mango, Mint, Orange Blossoms, Pineapple and Tangerine as well as mineral notes.
The Harrison-Clarke ranch is located in the Ballard Canyon area of the Santa Ynez Valley. Located just outside the town of Los Olivos, the area known as Ballard Canyon or Ballard Corridor, is becoming a source of the most sought-after Syrah and other Rhône varieties. Most of the vineyards here are at high elevations, sitting atop the crests of the of the hills flanking the canyon. The climate of Ballard Canyon is subject to the marine influence of the ocean just 15 miles to to the west. The soils are thin and contain limestone - a unique feature. The 35-acre Alisos Vineyard was planted by Loren and Wayne Colahan in the Los Alamos Valley at elevations of 500 feet above sea level. Planted in shallow soils on gentle south-facing slopes, the vineyard enjoys the climate of one of the up-and-coming regions for Syrah. The Los a Alamos Valley lies in an east-west orientation between the established Santa Maria Valley and Santa Ynez Valley appellations. Its intermediate geographic location makes for an intermediate climate. The temperatures here are on average 10 degrees Fahrenheit warmer than in the Santa Maria Valley and 10 degrees cooler than in the Santa Ynez Valley. Although subject to a strong marine influence, the Los Alamos Valley does not necessarily get hotter from west to east end. The Colahans focus on "growing grapes that produce definitive fine wines". This includes farming this vineyard for lower yields with the aim of achieving balanced and expressive fruit.
The hot 2004 growing season was one of the shortest in the history of the state. Harvest came two to three weeks earlier than usual, at the start of August. Statewide reports of light to normal yields of excellent quality fruit with superb extraction raised anticipation of the wines to come. However, red wines from this vintage are proving variable by our experience. While this "crop of crops" was lauded as producing highly extracted fruit, some wines have been rather unbalanced while others were stunning an memorable. This seems to depend more on the combination of AVA and vineyard management, rather than winemaking techniques. Each offering from this vintage should be judged individually and not by virtue of vintage alone since the shortened growing season affected different varietals in different AVAs and even vineyards.
You wouldn't know it by first glance at Rebecca and Peter Work, but they used to be high-rolling, business globetrotters. They are not afraid of physical work and (literally) getting their hands dirty. They purchased the current property in the eastern end of the Santa Ynez Valley (then, soon to be Sta. Rita Hills AVA) in 1999 with vague plans of someday planting a vineyard. Planted first to 15 acres in 2001 and expanded in 2004, the property is managed in accordance with sustainable and biodynamic farming principles and under he advice of Jeff Newton of Coastal Vineyard Care and Rebecca's son from a prior marriage, Don. The majority of the acreage is planted to Pinot Noir and Syrah. There are also smaller blocks of Grenache, Pinot Gris and Viognier planted on the property. Following the terrorist attacks, Peter and Rebecca re-evaluated the direction of their lives and decided to sell their Los Angeles home and fancy cars and moved to their wine country property with the explicit intent of becoming farmers. Learning "on-the-job", they developed their vineyard and experimented with wine making. Rebecca's son, Don, who is in essence the winemaker for Ampelos, has honed his skills at some of the most prominent wineries of the area: Babcock, Rideau, Lucas & Lewellen and is current position as Assistant Winemaker at Sea Smoke Cellars.
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