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January 2007 Wine Tasting Notes: 2004 Melville Syrah, Estate - Verna's
100% Estate (Verna's Vineyard) Syrah. 25% whole cluster fermentation. Aged in 10 year old neutral barrels for approximately 12 months, racked and bottle-aged for 12 more months. Syrah is an ancient variety proven by DNA analysis (in part at U.C. Davis) to be a native of the northern Rhône region of France. Prior to this evidence, its origin was disputed between the Rhône region and that around the Persian city of Shiraz – hence the two names for the grape. Syrah gives tannic and spicy red wines with significant longevity. Because of its weight, it contributes body and structure to blends with the softer, fruitier Grenache and Mourvèdre. It was first planted in California in 1971 from cuttings from the Hermitage appellation in northern Rhône and Australian Shiraz cuttings (which are said by some to be of Hermitage origin themselves). Current reports indicate total California Syrah acreage to be approaching 13,000 acres. The thick-skinned, very darkly pigmented grapes give inky, deep colored wines described as violet or nearly black. Syrah is very tannic, rich, chewy and textured and is typified by high alcohol and a spice-over-fruit character. The latter tends to be more accentuated in cooler climates where the grapes develop a higher skin-to-pulp ratio. Syrah typically shows black (sometimes white) pepper, licorice, clove, thyme and bay leaf as part of its spice component. The dark fruit typically expressed are blueberries, black currants and blackberries. Syrah may also show cedar or sandalwood notes. As with just about all wines, bottle age brings out terroir and cedar, tobacco, earth and leathery notes. The hot 2004 growing season was one of the shortest in the history of the state. Harvest came two to three weeks earlier than usual, at the start of August. Statewide reports of light to normal yields of excellent quality fruit with superb extraction raised anticipation of the wines to come. However, red wines from this vintage are proving variable by our experience. While this "crop of crops" was lauded as producing highly extracted fruit, some wines have been rather unbalanced while others were stunning an memorable. This seems to depend more on the combination of AVA and vineyard management, rather than winemaking techniques. Each offering from this vintage should be judged individually and not by virtue of vintage alone since the shortened growing season affected different varietals in different AVAs and even vineyards. Verna’s Vineyard is part of the Melville estate. Businessman, Ron Melville, founded Melville Vineyards in 1989 in Sonoma county. There, he grew Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In pursuit of great Pinot Noir, Ron developed an 82-acre vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, where, in 1996, the Melvilles planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as well as Viognier and Syrah. Those 82 acres have grown to 139 with a large spectrum of clones of each variety. These are planted on low vigor rootstock in mostly sandy soils with patches of loam and shale-containing soils of the Estate vineyard which enjoys the cool microclimate of the Sta. Rita Hills. While the estate vineyard is in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, Verna's Vineyard is in Cat Canyon area in the Los Alamos Valley. Two miles from the town of Los Alamos, 56 of the 100 acre vineyard are planted to Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir and Syrah with a majority of the vines being Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Laid out on the rolling hills of Cat Canyon, which snakes into the west side of the Solomon Hills, this vineyard is in a particularly cool part of the Los Alamos Valley, receiving cool marine winds. This area was once the ocean floor and once the water receded, the exposed sandy soil remained. Although it incorporated some loam elements over time, the soils here are generally sandy and well draining. Ron's son and vineyard manager, Brent Melville, farms the grapes at Verna's by a "pounds-per-vine" formula to obtain a balance of optimal yield and grape quality. The winemaker at Melville is Greg Brewer. This French teacher, musician, winemaker and apparent renaissance man (and judging by his writing, a thoughtful man) is also a terroiriste. Brewer gained experience (and no doubt much food for thought) as assistant winemaker to Bruce McGuire at Santa Barbara Winery and as winemaker and general manager at Sunstone Vineyards and Winery. He is also a partner with Steve Clifton in Brewer-Clifton Wines which produces Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Sta. Rita Hills vineyards.
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