January 2007 Wine Tasting Notes:
2005 Consilience Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County.
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This wine is a dark, brooding garnet color with a purple edge. The nose starts with rich mushroom and gamey notes. Dusty herbs and leather notes follow. With a little time, cherry, raspberry and a note of rose hips blossom with some aeration. The palate shows cherry and strawberry. These are on a backdrop of sweet brown spices and a hint of mineral. A lower medium body and smooth, silky tannin texture are dominated by high alcohol and hot mouthfeel. The medium finish carries cherry, strawberry and spices. |
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RWB Score: 88 breakdown 16.4% Alcohol $32.00 Retail (from winery); 982 cases produced |
This county-designated Pinot Noir, is reserved at first but the evolution of aromas and flavors over the course of the bottle tells its like a story. Unconventional as a Pinot Noir because of big fruit and high heat. Somewhat unconventional for a Consilience wine because of the herbal and spice dominance up front. It has good complexity and reveals its maker's trademark with a little air. A good social wine and a pairing with grilled red meat dishes. Enjoy over the next 4 years or so. |
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More Consilience reviews More on Santa Barbara County More on Santa Maria Valley |
75% Pinot Noir, Bien Nacido Vineyard, 25% Pinot Noir Solomon Hills Vineyard. Aged 10 months in 100% neutral French oak.
For those that have not seen “Sideways”, Pinot Noir, the noble Burgundian grape, is often described as "difficult" to grow but the wine is beautiful and complex when circumstances are favorable. It is one of the oldest grape varieties to be vinified. Pinot Noir is, in fact, genetically unstable and its spontaneous mutations have given 46 identified clones in France alone. Worldwide estimates range from 200 to 1000 clones. Additionally, Pinot Noir is very susceptible to frost at budbreak, pests, fungal and viral infections. The tiny (~60 square miles) Côte d'Or in Burgundy, France has been the benchmark for Pinot Noir for centuries. It is believed that the east-facing slopes of Burgundy make for optimal sun exposure without excessive heat and the chalky, well draining soils retain heat – all of which assist in ripening. In California, it does well in Carneros and the Russian River Valley regions of the Sonoma AVA in the north. In the Central Coast, Monterey County (the Pinnacles and the Santa Lucia Highlands) and the Santa Maria Valley and Sta. Rita Hills produce outstanding Pinot Noir. It is often described as delicate and light bodied and having a soft texture. The aromas and flavors are the most distinct and identifiable and most complex of all varieties. Common fruit aromas are: cherry, raspberry, ripe tomato and strawberry. It can express floral notes of rose or violet. Spice is a big element of Pinot Noir: cardamom, caraway, cinnamon, cola, clove, nutmeg, pepper, rosemary and sassafras. Some also describe a peppermint quality. It can also show aromas and flavors that some sources place in the herbal category: beet, black olive, green tomato, green tea, oregano and rhubarb. Other elements found in Pinot Noir are earth (moist earth), barnyard, mushroom and truffle. In addition leather, meat (raw or grilled) can also be seen. Pinot Noirs rarely have the make up to last past a decade but with age they can show oak characteristics as well as tobacco and smoke.
The Bien Nacido Vineyard is one of Santa Maria Valley’s oldest commercial vineyard sites, tracing its roots back to 1837. It also bears one of the most formidable reputations. Fruit from this 800 + acre vineyard is sought out by many wine makers and many of the county's premiere producers have their own blocks in the vineyard. Bine Nacido Vineyard is also one of the major viticultural nurseries for certified varietal budwoods. On the grounds of the vineyard are two wine making facilities: one is shared by Qupe and Au Bon Climat and the other to Tantara Winery.
At the western most end of the Santa Maria AVA, the 100 acre Solomon Hills Vineyards is made up of two lots straddling Clark Ave on the east side of Highway 101. Owned and operated by Miller family (who own the Bien Nacido Vineyard) the vineyard is named after the Solomon Hills on whose northwest-facing slopes it is located. Developed in the latter 1990’s and planted to Chardonnay (12 acres) and Pinot Noir (88 acres), it has become a source of much desired fruit. A large number of Pinot Noir clones (2A, 4, 23A, 76, 95, 96, 113, 115, 667, 777 and Pomard) was planted because the Millers liked the distinct and unique characteristics each of those clones expressed at Bien Nacido Vineyard. In addition, this selection offers winemakers a broad palette of clonal characteristics to suit their stylistic needs. The vineyard sits on the gentle lower slopes of the Solomon Hills. Many centuries ago, this area was submerged under water and communicated with the Pacific Ocean. As the waters receded with climate change, the sandy ocean floor was left exposed. Ranging from coarse-loamy to loamy sand, the vineyard soils are well to excessively draining. Some 12 miles east of the Pacific Ocean, the Solomon Hills Vineyards is the westernmost and the coolest in the Santa Maria Valley AVA. The warmth of the day here is mitigated by cool ocean breezes and foggy nights are not uncommon.
The 2005 year saw an increase in crops over the preceding years. The year is being compared to the acclaimed 1997 vintage because of a very long and generally cool growing season without heat spikes. This long season resulted in extended hang times in even temperatures which gave the fruit good extraction but lower sugar levels. The slow ripening of the fruit is expected to make for elegance and balance in the wines of this vintage. Another cause of buzz in the wine world has been the promise of lower alcohol levels. However, the finished wines reflect wine making skill and style as much as they do quality of the raw materials. While some 2005 offerings tasted to date display beauty and grace, others show dizzying (litterally) alcohol levels.
Consilience Winery has been making wine since 1997, but was formally founded in 1999. A partnership of two couples, Tom and Jodi Daughters and Brett and Monica Escalera, they have been making wines "loosely focused around the typical Rhône varietals" ever since. Their philosophy is to create wine with distinct expression of regional characteristics. With the motto of "High Octane wines", Consilience wines are big and bold, typically offering rich aromas and robust fruit with, distinct varietal characteristics, good structure and early approachability. Winemaker Brett Escalera also actively employs the practice of assemblage, to bring the wine to what he feels the fermented lots of component wines dictate.
The winery is not an estate winery. In this business there are two ways to make wine: grow the grapes yourself or buy them from other growers. Certainly, the latter allows for greater freedom and a broader range of wines for a winery's line up. But your wines better live up to the reputation of the vineyard. Consilience is well positioned in this respect. Brett Escalera brings his own skills and experience from his tenure at Fess Parker Winery, where he was Director of Wine Making from 1996 to 2006. Not only is Brett's experience at Fess Parker an asset, but his connection to Fess Parker Winery grants Consilience access to Fess' vineyards where some of the best grapes in the area are grown.
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5 points |
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Nose |
4 points |
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Palate |
3 points |
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Finish |
3 points |
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Tannins |
5 points |
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Acidity |
5 points |
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Alcohol |
3 points |
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Aging potential |
2 points |
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Overall quality |
8 points |
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