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May 2007 Wine Tasting Notes: 2005 Clos Pepe Estate Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills.
All estate fruit, each clone picked on a separate date: 777 clone (25% of the blend) picked early at a potential alcohol of 13%, clone 115 (making up 50% of blend) was picked at a lower ripeness but a potential alcohol of 14%, and clone 667 (remaining 25% of the blend) was picked ultra-ripe, a a potential alcohol of 15%. The finished wine was aged for 11 months in 25%-30% new French oak. Rolling gently over the foot of the La Purisima Hills on the north side of Highway 246, the 28-acre Clos Pepe vineyard is planted to 24 acres of Pinot Noir 4 acres of Chardonnay on well-draining sandy soils. Wes Hagen points out that despite being located in the northern portion of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA (and, thus, farther from the ocaen) the vineyard enjoys cooler temperatures than in the southern portion of the Sta. Rita Hills – between the Santa Rosa and the Santa Rita Hills – which is closer to the ocean. The majority of the fruit is sold to high-end producers throughout California, with only 25% retained for the estate label. Wes Hagen, who oversaw the planting and development of the former horse ranch into a vineyard beginning in 1996, adheres to the spirit (but not necessarily the letter) of biodynamic and organic farming methods. Going beyond attentive farming, the Pepes employ three full-time vineyard workers who receive salaries above the regional and industry standards as well as medical benefits for their families. This no doubt, reflects the Pepes’ personal values but, from a business standpoint, ensures a greater degree of commitment to the vineyard by providing the workers job security, stability and safety. Under Steve Pepe’s and Wes Hagen’s oversight, the estate label produces Pinot Noir which strives to be composed and food-friendly as well as smaller lots of Chablis-style Chardonnay (steel fermented and aged in older to neutral oak barrels). Pinot Noir, the noble Burgundian grape, is often described as "difficult" to grow but the wine is beautiful and complex when circumstances are favorable. It is one of the oldest grape varieties to be vinified. The tiny (~60 square miles) Côte d'Or in Burgundy, France has been the benchmark for Pinot Noir for centuries. Nonetheless, it is planted worldwide. It is often described as delicate and light bodied and having a soft texture. The aromas and flavors are the most distinct and identifiable and most complex of all varieties. Common fruit aromas are: cherry, raspberry, ripe tomato and strawberry. It can express floral notes or rose or violet. Spice is a big element of Pinot Noir: cardamom, caraway, cinnamon, cola, clove, nutmeg, pepper, rosemary and sassafras. Most California Pinot Noirs made today (with some exceptions) rarely have the make up to last past a decade but with age they can show tobacco and smoke characteristics. (read more) The 2005 year saw an increase in crops over the preceding years. The vintage is being compared to the acclaimed 1997 vintage because of a very long and generally cool growing season without heat spikes. This long season resulted in extended hang times in even temperatures which gave the fruit good extraction but generally lower sugar levels. The slow ripening of the fruit is expected to make for elegance and balance in the wines of this vintage.
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