January 2007 Wine Tasting Notes:
2005 Departure Syrah, Tiera Alta Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley.
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This wine is a dark smoky garnet. The nose starts with toast and licorice. Black currant, pepper and light raspberry and floral hints evolve with aeration. The palate starts with licorice notes on entry, and shows currant, cherry and pepper. Subtle mocha and brown spices express at higher temperatures. Upper medium body and a smooth, pleasing mouthfeel. Currant and cherry continue on the long and lasting, peppery finish. Alcohol is bold but not too overpowering. |
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RWB Score: 90 breakdown 15.1% Alcohol $28.00 Retail (from winery); 195 cases produced |
Elegant and well-built, this is a superlative first effort by Tim Grubb and gang. Curvy edges soften the firm, elegant structure and, together, these compliment the mouth filling fruit. This is an excellent social, stand-alone wine but should also pair well with barbecued red meats and well seasoned Mediterranean dishes. Should drink well for at least 5 years. |
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More Departure reviews. More on the Santa Ynez Valley |
This Côte Rôtie style Syrah is composed of 98% Tiera Alta Syrah (Clones 887 and U.C. Davis Clone 1) and 2% Tablas clone Viognier. Made in 3 lots (clone 887 Syrah, UC Davis clone 1 Syrah co-fermented with Viognier and 100% UC Davis Clone 1 Syrah) the wine completed malolactic fermentation in French oak (1 to 3 year olds). Additional aging for less than 12 months in neutral barrels.
Syrah is an ancient varietal proven by DNA analysis (in part at UC Davis) to be a native of the northern Rhône region of France. Syrah gives tannic and spicy red wines with significant longevity. Because of its weight, it contributes body and structure to blends with the softer, fruitier Grenache and Mourvèdre. In the southern Rhône, these varieties make up the core of Châteauneuf du Pape reds. Syrah not only needs hot climates but thrives in them - as its rapid propagation in California and Australia demonstrates. It was first planted in California in 1971 from cuttings from the Hermitage appellation in northern Rhône and Australian Shiraz cuttings (which are said by some to be of Hermitage origin themselves). Current reports indicate total California Syrah acreage to be approaching 13,000 acres. The thick-skinned, very darkly pigmented grapes give inky, deep colored wines described as violet or nearly black. Syrah is very tannic, rich, chewy and textured and is typified by high alcohol and a spice-over-fruit character. Although expressivity may vary slightly between different clones, Syrah typically shows black (sometimes white) pepper, licorice, clove, thyme and bay leaf as part of its spice component. The dark fruit typically expressed are blueberries, black currants and blackberries. Syrah may also show cedar or sandalwood notes. As with just about all wines, bottle age brings out terroir and cedar, tobacco, earth and leathery notes.
Viognier is a Rhône varietal rapidly becoming popular in California. In addition to being offered as a single varietal, it is often blended with Roussanne to make white Rhône blends and is also used in that region (and in California) to soften Syrah and Syrah-based red blends. It is being experimented with in unconventional blends with Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. At its best, it shows perfumed floral aromas with tropical fruit flavors and a rich, almost viscous mouthfeel with a prominent mineral element. It is less apt to take on dominant oak characteristics than Chardonnay. Aromas and flavors typical of Viognier include: Acacia, Anise, Apricot, Guava, Honey, Kiwi, Mango, Mint, Orange Blossoms, Pineapple and Tangerine as well as mineral notes.
The 2005 year saw an increase in crops over the preceding years. The year is being compared to the acclaimed 1997 vintage because of a very long and generally cool growing season without heat spikes. This long season resulted in extended hang times in even temperatures which gave the fruit good extraction but lower sugar levels. The slow ripening of the fruit is expected to make for elegance and balance in the wines of this vintage.
The Tierra Alta Vineyard is located in the Ballard Canyon area of the Santa Ynez Valley, just outside the town of Los Olivos. The vineyard is situated on the crest and steep slopes of one of the highest hills (elevation of 1,200 feet) that frame Ballard Canyon to the northeast. This area, known as Ballard Canyon or Ballard Corridor, is the source of the most sought after Syrah, grown by the likes of Larner Vineyard, Purisima Mountain Vineyard (Beckmen family), Rusack estate vineyard and Stolpman Vineyard. This southwest facing vineyard is one of the newer arrivals on the scene, planted to some 45 acres planted mostly to Syrah. There are also small lots of Grenache, Rousanne and Viognier. More recent plantings include Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, and Tempranillo. Sauvignon Blanc is also grown here (for Brander). The climate of Ballard Canyon is subject to the marine influence of the ocean - just 15 miles to to the west. The soils are thin and contain limestone - a unique feature. The vineyard is under the care of John Belfry - reputed to be one of the best in the state of California. John also manages the Rio Vista, Mt. Carmel, Great Oaks and Rodney’s vineyards. There is no "Tierra Alta Winery" because, as John Belfry is often quoted saying: the "owner doesn't make wine, just wants to drink wine". Other prominent names to source from this vineyard are: Tensley Wines, Curran Wines and Kaena Wines.
While many college friends sit around musing about making their own wine, Departure Wine Company is making that dream come true. Three friends from U.C. Santa Barbara: Tim Grubb and brothers Jason and PJ Miele didn't waste time just talking and pursued their dream. The fashionable and meticulously groomed Tim Grubb is the winemaker for Departure. He has been honing his winemaking skills working with Joey Tensley for several vintages. Departure makes their wines in the same facility and sources their fruit from the same vineyards. Look for an expanding program of red Rhône varieties. No longer fledgling, Departure is maintaining its stylistic trajectory and giving evidence to its Tensley upbringing. Look for well rounded, softer reds with good varietal distinction, structure and expressive but composed fruit. The choice of the name is as multilayered as the wines.
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5 points |
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Nose |
4 points |
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Palate |
3 points |
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Finish |
4 points |
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Tannins |
5 points |
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Acidity |
5 points |
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Alcohol |
4 points |
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Aging potential |
2 points |
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Overall quality |
8 points |
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