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June 2007 Wine Tasting Notes: 2005 Daniel Gehrs Merlot, Santa Barbara County.
Composition: 90% Los Alamos Valley Vineyard Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, this wine was fermented in open-top fermenters and punched down at least four times daily. The wine settled after pressing in steel tanks and started malolactic fermentation. It was transferred into French oak barrels (two to six years old) and aged for 14 months with intermittent raking in neutral French oak. Merlot has a flavor profile similar to Cabernet Sauvignon, but displays less distinctive and slightly more herbaceous aromas and flavors. Because of its lower tannins and more forward fruit, it is more approachable than Cabernet Sauvignon. Although it is beloved by many for its approachability and is a dominant part of California and Bordeaux red wines, Merlot is fickle about its weather: it requires a moderate and dry growing region and climate to be at its best. Merlot shows more of the green and herbaceous characteristics when either under- or over- ripe. DNA analysis shows Cabernet Franc is, along with Sauvignon Blanc, the “parent” of Cabernet Sauvignon. It is one of the five main Bordeaux grapes used for making red wines. Although it tends to display more fruit and less tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon, it may become more herbal depending on vineyard management practices. It is much more often used as part of a blend – most traditionally in Bordeaux or Meritage blends as well as unconventional blends with Rhône varieties, Cal-Itals and Super Tuscans. Cabernet Franc displays raspberry, cherry, plum, strawberry, floral notes of violet and sometimes spice. The 2005 year saw an increase in crops over the preceding years. The year is being compared to the acclaimed 1997 vintage because of a very long and generally cool growing season without heat spikes. This long season resulted in extended hang times in even temperatures which gave the fruit good extraction but lower sugar levels. The slow ripening of the fruit is expected to make for elegance and balance in the wines of this vintage. The Los Alamos Valley Vineyard is over a mile long, and runs along Highway 101, south of Los Alamos. Cooler than the Santa Ynez valley but cooler than the Santa Maria Valley, the intermediate climate of this area and thick layers of clay and loam soils resemble those of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion (Bordeaux) This vineyard is planted with Rhône, Burgundy, Bordeaux and Italian varieties including Malvasia Bianca, Moscato, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Sangiovese. Some of the vines, originating from cuttings brought over from Europe, are over 25 years old. This is a cool climate vineyard with deep loamy soils and late ripening characteristics. Their Italian varietals, including the excellent Pinot Grigio come from there as well. The fruit from this vineyard is highly sought-after by many winemakers. Daniel Gehrs developed his wine making expertise over the past 3 decades. He initially started making wine at home as a college student. Well armed for the job with a passion and a Political Science degree, he joined Paul Masson Vineyards, Saratoga, in the San Francisco Bay area. After two years there, he and his wife purchased Congress Springs Vineyards and spent sixteen years there making Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon from old vines under his own label. Over the next three years, Daniel and wife Robin migrated slowly south until they arrived back in Santa Barbara County and Daniel took on wine making responsibilities at Zaca Mesa. After four years, he left Zaca Mesa. He currently makes wines for several label in addition to his own and is an active consultant to other producers in the area. He sources the fruit for his grapes from all over California. Stylistically, Daniel believes wine should be a companion to food and strives to make his wines food-friendly, with lower alcohol levels than most producers today. Daniel makes his current releases at the Lucas & Lewellen winery facility in Buellton.
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