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June 2007 Wine Tasting Notes: 2005 Daniel Gehrs Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Barbara County.
100% Los Alamos Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, 20%-25% botrysied grapes. These grapes were hand harvested at 35 degrees Brix and cold fermented to a natural completion at 14% residual sugar and tank aged thereafter. Sauvignon Blanc was first brought to California from Sauternes (Bordeaux) in the 1880s. It quickly gained popularity and thrived in the Livermore Valley. In 1968 Robert Mondavi changed the style of his Sauvignon Blanc from a sweet to a dry style. To mark the difference, he coined the name “Fumé Blanc”, which is a combination of the names “Pouilly-Fumé”, (a dry Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley) and “Sauvignon Blanc”. It is quite distinct even in its most base form. Although some may expect a "cat box" characteristic to be part of Sauvignon Blanc’s typical flavor profile, it occurs when the grapes are insufficiently ripe. On the other end of the spectrum, melon aromas and flavors come out with increased sun exposure and ripeness. Sauvignon Blanc is also marked by mineral and high acidity, even in late harvest offerings. Uniformly, tart white gooseberry characteristics are present in better examples. Other flavors include grapefruit and lime. Lemon grass is another defining characteristic. Botrytis cinerea is a fungus which attacks the grape skins, causing the fruit to shrivel and become dehydrated. Under alternating conditions of damp, misty mornings and warm, sunny afternoons the fungus infests the grapes, leaving them shriveled, dehydrated, and super-concentrated. This is called Noble Rot. In addition to concentrated flavors and sugars, there are unique flavors which are extracted from Botrytis during wine production. Noble Rot is essential to sweet wines produced in Sauternes, Tokaji (Tokay), Germany and Austria. In conditions of constant dampness and low temperatures, Botrytis cinerea results in Grey Rot which is a devastating event for most grape varieties. Neither Grey or Noble Rot are common in dry climates with constant sunshine such as Rhône Valley or the Central Coast. The 2005 year saw an increase in crops over the preceding years. The year was generally cool and is being compared to the acclaimed 1997 vintage. The long and cool growing season without heat spikes resulted in fruit with good extraction but lower sugar levels. The slow ripening of the fruit is expected to make for elegance and balance in the wines of this vintage. There were a number of things that converged to make this wine what it is: The circumstances of a cool growing season allowed for just enough moisture to gather at night during autumn to allow botrytis to set in. The still warm days prevented grey rot. Louis Lucas' expertise in the vineyard extended hang time and guided the grapes to a superb concentration and flavor development. As the grapes mature, Louis will bring in supplemental irrigation to prevent defoliation of the canopy. With green leaves on the vine, the plant is physiologically intact and the grapes can mature and gain complexity. In addition, the foliage shields the fruit from the sun, further preventing dehydration and raisining. The vines are netted to keep birds from raiding the sweet fruit. The Los Alamos Valley Vineyard is over a mile long, and runs along Highway 101 south of Los Alamos. This vineyard is planted with Rhône, Burgundy, Bordeaux and Italian varieties. Some of the vines, originating from cuttings brought over from Europe, are over 25 years old. The fruit from this vineyard is highly sought-after by many winemakers. Daniel Gehrs developed his wine making expertise over the past 3 decades. He initially started making wine at home as a college student. Well armed for the job with a passion and a Political Science degree, he joined Paul Masson Vineyards, Saratoga, in the San Francisco Bay area. After two years there, he and his wife purchased Congress Springs Vineyards and spent sixteen years there making Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon from old vines under his own label. Over the next three years, Daniel and wife Robin migrated slowly south until they arrived back in Santa Barbara County and Daniel took on wine making responsibilities at Zaca Mesa. After four years, he left Zaca Mesa. He currently makes wines for several label in addition to his own and is an active consultant to other producers in the area. He sources the fruit for his grapes from all over California. Stylistically, Daniel believes wine should be a companion to food and strives to make his wines food-friendly, with lower alcohol levels than most producers today. Daniel makes his current releases at the Lucas & Lewellen winery facility in Buellton.
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