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February 2007 Wine Tasting Notes:

2005 Daniel Gehrs Un-Oaked Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County.

This wine is golden straw in color with a sparkling clarity. The nose offers up medium intensity aromas of dried apples and tropical fruit supported by rich waxy lemon rind. The palate gives medium intensity citrus and apple on a base of medium intensity minerality. The wine is crisp and zesty with a refreshing mouthfeel. A modest finish is built around green apple backed by citrus rind with distinct minerality.

RWB Score: 87 breakdown

13.5% Alcohol

$16.00 Retail (from winery);       

Unknown production.

This 2005 offering is a nicely built Chablis-styled Chardonnay. Crisp acidity a and light, almost chalky minerality are both refreshing to the palate and a welcome break from the convention soft California Chardonnay. Keeping in line with Daniel Gehrs' style, this food-friendly wine is a versatile pairing and should hold up well for about 5 years, or a little more, depending on how you like your mature Chardonnay.

     
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This wine was steel fermented without malolactic fermentation.

This offering definitely aspires to the Chablis style of Chardonnay, so it is appropriate to give some background on that style. The Burgundy village of Chablis is home to the white wine of the same name. Located in the north of the Burgundy region, the village produces white wine exclusively from Chardonnay grapes grown on limestone soils rich in fossils. The Chablis style, then, is brisk and fruity with elements of nuts, butter and minerality. The wines are produced very dry with a bright and refreshing acidity.

DNA profiling at UC Davis indicate Chardonnay is a cross between a nearly extinct variety: gouais blanc (now, ironically, a somewhat "undesirable" grape) and an unidentified member of the "pinot" family (most likely pinot noir). Chardonnay requires close attention in the vineyard during ripening as it can quickly lose acidity, resulting in clumsy wine. Hence, its best examples come from cooler climates. Also called Beaunois and Morillon, it ranges from subtle to distinct – depending on winemaking style. It displays crisp aromas and flavors of apples, apricots, citrus, peaches, pears as well as tropical fruit. Floral notes of acacia are also common. Terroir can gain distinct expression in the form of flint, mineral or mint characteristics. The small, thin-skinned Chardonnay grapes tend  to make wines that express traits acquired during vinification. Depending on the degree of malolactic fermentation allowed and cooperage selection, butter, cream, vanilla and hazelnuts come forward. Chardonnay also is apt to take on oak characteristics during barrel aging. Perhaps this characteristic may be the reason for the current trend of departure from an overly oaky style which were initially intended to mimic great Burgundian whites.

The 2005 year saw an increase in crops over the preceding years. The year is being compared to the acclaimed 1997 vintage because of a very long and generally cool growing season without heat spikes. This long season resulted in extended hang times in even temperatures which gave the fruit good extraction but lower sugar levels. The slow ripening of the fruit is expected to make for elegance and balance in the wines of this vintage.

Daniel Gehrs developed his wine making expertise over the past 3 decades. He initially started making wine at home as a college student. Well armed for the job with a passion and a Political Science degree, he joined Paul Masson Vineyards, Saratoga, in the San Francisco Bay area. After two years there, he and his wife purchased Congress Springs Vineyards and spent sixteen years there making Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon from old vines under his own label. Over the next three years, Daniel and wife Robin migrated slowly south until they arrived back in Santa Barbara County and Daniel took on wine making responsibilities at Zaca Mesa. After four years, he left Zaca Mesa. He currently makes wines for several labels in addition to his own (including Lucas&Lewellen, Mandolina and Queen of Hearts) and is an active consultant to other producers in the area. He sources the fruit for his grapes from all over California. Stylistically, Daniel believes wine should be a companion to food and strives to make his wines food-friendly, with lower alcohol levels than most producers today.

Color

 5 points

Nose

 3 points

Palate

 2 points

Finish

 2 points

Astringency/Minerality

 5 points

Acidity

 5 points

Alcohol

 5 points

Aging potential

 2 points

Overall quality

 8 points

Rating Scale explained

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