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February 2007 Wine Tasting Notes: 2005 Koehler Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley.
A blend of three clones of estate Syrah harvested on separate days from three separate blocks. Fermented in stainless steel, this wine was aged 10 months in French Oak (30% new, 70% 1-3yr old). Syrah is an ancient varietal proven by DNA analysis (in part at UC Davis) to be a native of the northern Rhône region of France. Prior to this evidence, its origin was disputed between the Rhône region and that around the Persian city of Shiraz – hence the two names for the grape. Syrah gives tannic and spicy red wines with significant longevity. Because of its weight, it contributes body and structure to blends with the softer, fruitier Grenache and Mourvèdre. In the southern Rhône, these varieties make up the core of Châteauneuf du Pape reds. Syrah not only needs hot climates but thrives in them - as its rapid propagation in California and Australia demonstrates. It is also widely grown in the southern portion of Oregon, Washington and South Africa. It was first planted in California in 1971 from cuttings from the Hermitage appellation in northern Rhône and Australian Shiraz cuttings (which are said by some to be of Hermitage origin themselves). Current reports indicate total California Syrah acreage to be approaching 13,000 acres. The thick-skinned, very darkly pigmented grapes give inky, deep colored wines described as violet or nearly black. Syrah is very tannic, rich, chewy and textured and is typified by high alcohol and a spice-over-fruit character. The latter tends to be more accentuated in cooler climates where the grapes develop a higher skin-to-pulp ratio. This can be nicely demonstrated by tasting Syrahs from growers spanning the north-south gamut of the Central Coast regions. Although expressivity may vary slightly between different clones, Syrah typically shows black (sometimes white) pepper, licorice, clove, thyme and bay leaf as part of its spice component. The dark fruit typically expressed are blueberries, black currants and blackberries. Syrah may also show cedar or sandalwood notes. As with just about all wines, bottle age brings out terroir and cedar, tobacco, earth and leathery notes. The 2005 year saw an increase in crops over the preceding years. The year is being compared to the acclaimed 1997 vintage because of a very long and generally cool growing season without heat spikes. This long season resulted in extended hang times in even temperatures which gave the fruit good extraction but lower sugar levels. The slow ripening of the fruit is expected to make for elegance and balance in the wines of this vintage. Koehler Winery, in the Santa Ynez Valley appellation, evolved from a 1997 purchase of a property with vines up to 30 years old. At that time, all fruit grown was being sold to other producers. The vision of Kory and Peter Koehler, owners, was to make premium wines at affordable prices. 67 acres (of the 100 acre estate) are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Grenache, Riesling, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, and Viognier. Most of the vines on the property are approaching 30 year in age. The Koehler line up of wines produced prior to 2005 is solid with a number of stars. Beginning with the 2005 vintage, Koehler is releasing wines made by their new winemaker, Chris Stanton. Under Stanton's oversight, the winery will be making all estate wines, focusing on Rhône varietals with a total annual production approaching 10,000 cases.
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