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December 2006 Wine Tasting Notes: 2005 Lucas & Lewellen Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Barbara County.
100% Los Alamos Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc. These grapes were hand harvested at 35 degrees Brix and cold fermented to a natural completion at 14% residual sugar. The 2005 year saw an increase in crops over the preceding years. The year was generally cool and is being compared to the acclaimed 1997 vintage. The long and cool growing season without heat spikes resulted in fruit with good extraction but lower sugar levels. The slow ripening of the fruit is expected to make for elegance and balance in the wines of this vintage. There were a number of things that converged to make this wine what it is: The circumstances of a cool growing season allowed for just enough moisture to gather at night during autumn to allow botrytis to set in. The still warm days prevented grey rot. Louis Lucas' expertise in the vineyard extended hang time and guided the grapes to a superb concentration and flavor development. As the grapes mature, Louis will bring in supplemental irrigation to prevent defoliation of the canopy. With green leaves on the vine, the plant is physiologically intact and the grapes can mature and gain complexity. In addition, the foliage shields the fruit from the sun, further preventing dehydration and raisining. The vines are netted to keep birds from raiding the sweet fruit. Botrytis cinerea is a fungus which attacks the grape skins, causing the fruit to shrivel and become dehydrated. Under alternating conditions of damp, misty mornings and warm, sunny afternoons the fungus infests the grapes, leaving them shriveled, dehydrated, and super-concentrated. This is called Noble Rot. In addition to concentrated flavors and sugars, there are unique flavors which are extracted from Botrytis during wine production. Noble Rot is essential to sweet wines produced in Sauternes, Tokaji (Tokay), Germany and Austria. In conditions of constant dampness and low temperatures, Botrytis cinerea results in Grey Rot which is a devastating event for most grape varieties. Neither Grey or Noble Rot are common in dry climates with constant sunshine such as Rhône Valley or the Central Coast. The Los Alamos Valley Vineyard is over a mile long, and runs along Highway 101 south of Los Alamos. This vineyard is planted with Rhône, Burgundy, Bordeaux and Italian varieties. Some of the vines, originating from cuttings brought over from Europe, are over 25 years old. The fruit from this vineyard is highly sought-after by many winemakers. Louis Lucas is a key figure in Santa Barbara County and San Luis Obispo County viticulture as one of the area's first commercial wine grape growers. Along with a handful other growers, he has become an iconoclast of Central Coast Viticulture. Coming from a grape growing family in the Bakersfield area, he came to Santa Barbara County in 1970 when he formed Tepusquet Vineyards with his brother George and partner Alfred Gagnon. Through a passionate pursuit of knowledge he broke many long accepted rues of viticulture and defined many new ones for the Central Coast. Royce Lewellen, a retired judge joined forces in 1996 and Lucas & Lewellen have been making wines together since. Their wines sourced from their 30+ year-old vines wines have been winning awards for a long time. Their vineyards are located in Santa Maria, Los Alamos and Santa Ynez Valleys. Daniel Gehrs is the winemaker at Lucas & Lewellen. Another prominent figure in the world of Santa Barbara wine, he consults to many wineries in the area and produces wines under his own label.
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