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January 2007 Wine Tasting Notes: 2005 Lafond Syrah, Sta. Rita Hills.
Sourced from estate vines (72%) and from the Hill Top Ranch Vineyard (28%) in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA this blend of multiple clones was aged in American, French and Hungarian barrels, 20% of which were new. Syrah is an ancient varietal proven by DNA analysis (in part at UC Davis) to be a native of the northern Rhône region of France. Prior to this evidence, its origin was disputed between the Rhône region and that around the Persian city of Shiraz – hence the two names for the grape. Syrah gives tannic and spicy red wines with significant longevity. Because of its weight, it contributes body and structure to blends with the softer, fruitier Grenache and Mourvèdre. In the southern Rhône, these varieties make up the core of Châteauneuf du Pape reds. Syrah not only needs hot climates but thrives in them - as its rapid propagation in California and Australia demonstrates. It is also widely grown in the southern portion of Oregon, Washington and South Africa. It was first planted in California in 1971 from cuttings from the Hermitage appellation in northern Rhône and Australian Shiraz cuttings (which are said by some to be of Hermitage origin themselves). Current reports indicate total California Syrah acreage to be approaching 13,000 acres. The thick-skinned, very darkly pigmented grapes give inky, deep colored wines described as violet or nearly black. Syrah is very tannic, rich, chewy and textured and is typified by high alcohol and a spice-over-fruit character. The latter tends to be more accentuated in cooler climates where the grapes develop a higher skin-to-pulp ratio. This can be nicely demonstrated by tasting Syrahs from growers spanning the north-south gamut of the Central Coast regions. Although expressivity may vary slightly between different clones, Syrah typically shows black (sometimes white) pepper, licorice, clove, thyme and bay leaf as part of its spice component. The dark fruit typically expressed are blueberries, black currants and blackberries. Syrah may also show cedar or sandalwood notes. As with just about all wines, bottle age brings out terroir and cedar, tobacco, earth and leathery notes. The cooler, wetter and longer growing season of 2005 year saw an increase in crops over the preceding years. The year is being compared to the acclaimed 1997 vintage because of generally even, cool temperatures and no heat spikes. This long season resulted in extended hang times which gave the fruit good extraction but lower sugar levels. The slow ripening of the fruit is expected to make for elegance and balance in the wines of this vintage. The Hilltop Ranch Vineyard is flanked to the north and south by Lafond Vineyards. Both properties are on the northern side of Santa Rosa Road and on the eastern side of Mill Road, south of Ampelos Vineyard. This 45-acre vineyard shares the warmer climate and the soils of the southeastern corner of the Sta. Rita Hills Founded in 1962 by Pierre Lafond, Santa Barbara Winery is part of local and wine history. Originally, an owner of a wine and cheese shop, Lafond combined his love of wine and entrepreneurial ambitions in founding Santa Barbara Winery in 1962. He purchased 105 acres in the western end of the Santa Ynez Valley - his current estate - and planted it to Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Riesling. The estate is now in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. Over time, Pinot Noir ands Syrah were added. After removal (after 2005) of the remaining 7 acres of Zinfandel (planted in 1972), there are just under 96 acres under vine in the Lafond Vineyards: 39 acres of Pinot Noir, 20 acres of Chardonnay, Just under 14 acres of Riesling, just under 13 acres of Syrah, almost 3 acres of Sauvignon Blanc and just over 2 acres of Grenache. Bruce McGuire has been the winemaker at Santa Barbara Winery since 1981. He came down from Napa attracted by the reputation of Santa Barbara County Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Under his supervision, the vineyard's acreage of Pinot Noir was expanded and winery facilities and equipment were upgraded. Generally, wines from the Santa Barbara Winery and Lafond Winery labels are released with a little more bottle age than most others in the area. The whites tend to be more are more mineral, the Pinots are usually released with more bottle age tend to be a bit more evolved.
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