February 2007 Wine Tasting Notes:
2005 Tensley Syrah, Colson Canyon Vineyard, Santa Barbara County.
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This Syrah is deep, inky ruby in the glass. The nose starts with lighter notes of white pepper and hints of savory herbs up front, leading to strong aromas of ripe pomegranate and black berries. These are backed by light notes of pencil lead, vanilla and vague floral notes suggestive of lavender and acacia. The palate offers strong blackberry and dark cherry ending with floral nuances. The juxtaposition of rich fruit, tangy acids and very soft tannins makes for a smooth mouthfeel characterized by plumy juiciness and a medium body attributable mostly to level of extraction and alcohol. The medium length finish delivers juicy, big dark cherries and blackberries that end on a short coffee note. |
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RWB Score: 90 breakdown 15.6% Alcohol $38.00 Retail (from winery); 1,168 cases produced |
This wine is for you if you love juicy fruit flavors but eschew tannins because it is bursting with ripe, juicy dark fruit. Enthusiast of Beaujolais should find this wine hits the spot. Much more of a social wine, this Syrah will do well with real chocolate and chocolate cake. It should also do well with rare red meats, turkey or duck. The soft tannins suggest a shorter lifespan but the acidity and level of extraction may sustain this wine for 5 to 7 more years. |
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More Tensley reviews. More on the Santa Barbara County AVA |
Composition: 100% Colson Canyon Vineyard Syrah picked over six days to achieve greater complexity. The finished wine was aged in 20% new French oak and 20% one-year-old French oak.
Syrah is an ancient varietal proven by DNA analysis (in part at UC Davis) to be a native of the northern Rhône region of France. Prior to this evidence, its origin was disputed between the Rhône region and that around the Persian city of Shiraz – hence the two names for the grape. Syrah gives tannic and spicy red wines with significant longevity. Because of its weight, it contributes body and structure to blends with the softer, fruitier Grenache and Mourvèdre. In the southern Rhône, these varieties make up the core of Châteauneuf du Pape reds. Syrah not only needs hot climates but thrives in them - as its rapid propagation in California and Australia demonstrates. It is also widely grown in the southern portion of Oregon, Washington and South Africa. It was first planted in California in 1971 from cuttings from the Hermitage appellation in northern Rhône and Australian Shiraz cuttings (which are said by some to be of Hermitage origin themselves). Current reports indicate total California Syrah acreage to be approaching 13,000 acres. The thick-skinned, very darkly pigmented grapes give inky, deep colored wines described as violet or nearly black. Syrah is very tannic, rich, chewy and textured and is typified by high alcohol and a spice-over-fruit character. The latter tends to be more accentuated in cooler climates where the grapes develop a higher skin-to-pulp ratio. This can be nicely demonstrated by tasting Syrahs from growers spanning the north-south gamut of the Central Coast regions. Although expressivity may vary slightly between different clones, Syrah typically shows black (sometimes white) pepper, licorice, clove, thyme and bay leaf as part of its spice component. The dark fruit typically expressed are blueberries, black currants and blackberries. Syrah may also show cedar or sandalwood notes. As with just about all wines, bottle age brings out terroir and cedar, tobacco, earth and leathery notes.
The cooler, wetter and longer growing season of 2005 year saw an increase in crops over the preceding years. The year is being compared to the acclaimed 1997 vintage because of generally even, cool temperatures and no heat spikes. This long season resulted in extended hang times which gave the fruit good extraction but lower sugar levels. The slow ripening of the fruit is expected to make for elegance and balance in the wines of this vintage.
The 15-acre Colson Canyon Vineyard is located deep in the Colson Canyon, in the San Rafael Mountains high above the Santa Maria Valley. Straddling the eastern boundary of the Santa Maria Valley AVA, some 5 miles northeast of the Byron and Cambria properties, the original plantings of 8 acre of Clone 7 Syrah. An additional 7 acres of ENTAV Clone 877 and 1 acre of Grenache were added recently. Owner Rio Rieswig insists on farming the vines to produce extremely low yields of very small clusters of tiny berries giving dense wines. The fruit from this is highly sought-after.
Joey Tensley, originally from Bakersfield, is a promising, wine maker and a member of the Brian Babcock-influenced group of young winemakers in the area who focuses on the vineyard, proclaiming: "Great wines are made in the vineyard". He cut his winemaking teeth at Fess Parker Winery, Babcock (as an Assistant Winemaker) and Beckmen Vineyards where he gained experience with Rhône varietals and launched his own label. He makes vineyard-designated Syrah wines which he describes as "feminine wines, but with nice fruit and backbone". His wines consistently show intense, complex character with deep extraction. Secondly, he keeps all his wines in the same price range regardless of style. He applies the same winemaking methodology (but varying cooperage regimens) to the wines of different blends and from different vineyards. Recently, he has added a white (Grenache Balnc and Roussanne) blend to his Syrah-based program. He sources his Syrah from Turner Vineyard (Sta. Rita Hills AVA, Colson Canyon Vineyard ( AVA), Three Creek Vineyard ( AVA), Thompson Vineyard (AVA) and Tierra Alta Vineyard. In addition to his own label, Joey makes wines for Carina Cellars which has a broader lineup of wine varieties but very similar styling.
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5 points |
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Nose |
4 points |
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Palate |
4 points |
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Finish |
3 points |
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Tannins |
3 points |
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Acidity |
5 points |
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Alcohol |
5 points |
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Aging potential |
3 points |
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Overall quality |
8 points |
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