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January 2007 Wine Tasting Notes: 2005 Ventana Vineyards Gold Stripe Chardonnay, Monterey, Arroyo Seco.
Estate grown and bottled, this wine is aged for 10 months in French oak. DNA profiling at UC Davis indicate Chardonnay is a cross between a nearly extinct variety: gouais blanc (now, ironically, a somewhat "undesirable" grape) and an unidentified member of the "pinot" family (most likely pinot noir). Chardonnay requires close attention in the vineyard during ripening as it can quickly lose acidity, resulting in clumsy wine. Hence, its best examples come from cooler climates. Also called Beaunois and Morillon, it ranges from subtle to distinct – depending on winemaking style. It displays crisp aromas and flavors of apples, apricots, citrus, peaches, pears as well as tropical fruit. Floral notes of acacia are also common. Terroir can gain distinct expression in the form of flint, mineral or mint characteristics. The small, thin-skinned Chardonnay grapes tend to make wines that express traits acquired during vinification. Depending on the degree of malolactic fermentation allowed and cooperage selection, butter, cream, vanilla and hazelnuts come forward. Chardonnay also is apt to take on oak characteristics during barrel aging. Perhaps this characteristic may be the reason for the current trend of departure from an overly oaky style which were initially intended to mimic great Burgundian whites. The 2005 year saw an increase in crops over the preceding years. The year is being compared to the acclaimed 1997 vintage because of a very long and generally cool growing season without heat spikes. This long season resulted in extended hang times in even temperatures which gave the fruit good extraction but lower sugar levels. The slow ripening of the fruit is expected to make for elegance and balance in the wines of this vintage. Ventana ("window" in Spanish) was founded by Doug Meador in the early 1970s. A former Navy pilot from a family of Washington apple farmers, he became fascinated with cold-climate viticulture while supervising the planting of 2,500 acres of grapes in the Arroyo Seco area of Monterey County. He purchased and planted the current 400 acre property. He became a pioneer and champion of Monterey wine. In September 2006, The Meadors sold the Ventana brand, vineyards, winery and tasting room to a group of local winemakers and grape growers who make up Ventana Vintners, LLC. Doug is still involved with and present at Ventana (which continues his legacy) but is concentrating on his namesake label: Meador as well as other projects. Ventana Vineyard’s lead winemaker is Reggie Hammond (he retains that position after the recent transfer of ownership). He was brought in by Doug Meador to manage the vineyards, winery operations and to develop Ventana's red wine portfolio while continuing the line up of white wines at the standard of quality Dough had established. He applies a "keep it simple and don't screw it up" approach to achieve the Ventana winemaking philosophy. Ventana aims to craft "European sensibility and an abundance of California fruit" at a good value. This means affordable wines with distinct varietal characteristics. The frame of mind is to be "wine-growers" not grape growers.
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