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January 2007 Wine Tasting Notes: 2005 William James Cellars Grenache, Central Coast.
80% Grenache from Camp 4 and Alta Loma Vineyards and 20% Syrah, Hampton Family Vineyard. Aged 10 months in mixed American, French and other European cooperage - 20% new. This offering demonstrates both the versatility and fruitiness of Grenache and the power of Syrah (and its potential to hijack a blend). The distinct varietal characteristic of a well-made Syrah is easy even for most neophytes to pick up. The dense dark fruit and peppery spice come through in this wine. Nonetheless, the lush, plump fruit flavors of the Grenache fill the mouth. Although it is generally thought of as a Rhône variety Grenache (Grenache Noir and its relatives Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris) originates from Spain where it is called “Garnacha” where there is twice as much planted as in France. In fact, it is currently the most widely planted red wine variety in the world and goes by many names, depending where it is grown. It has some history in California as it is reported to have been used in the jug wines of the Central Valley for decades, third only to Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. It is only now coming into its own as a varietal and in blends, in no small part due to the successes of the Rhône Rangers. Traditionally, it has been used as a component of red blends (typically in the Northern Rhône), usually as the grape for Rhône rosés and as the main component component in most Southern Rhône red blends. In Spain, it is the main component of red blends from the Rioja and Catalonia. It is a sturdy, prolific variety (hence its utility in the Central Valley jug wines) and tolerates dry and hot climates. Grenache makes for softer, less intensely colored, fruity varietal wines often described as ‘fleshy’, ‘fruity’ and ‘heady’. Hence its versatility in blending: it can soften tannic Syrahs and fill out thinner wines. Its distinct sweet, ‘dusty’ and ’fleshy’ mouthfeel is typically supported by flavors of black currants, cherry, licorice and strawberry. Barrel aging can impart vanilla notes. With a heavier oak regiment it can become smoky. Bottle aging will see this variety fading relatively quickly and displaying dried fruit flavors. Despite the tannin and acids, Grenache is not known for its longevity. Syrah is an ancient varietal proven by DNA analysis (in part at UC Davis) to be a native of the northern Rhône region of France. Prior to this evidence, its origin was disputed between the Rhône region and that around the Persian city of Shiraz – hence the two names for the grape. Syrah gives tannic and spicy red wines with significant longevity. Because of its weight, it contributes body and structure to blends with the softer, fruitier Grenache and Mourvèdre. In the southern Rhône, these varieties make up the core of Châteauneuf du Pape reds. Syrah not only needs hot climates but thrives in them - as its rapid propagation in California and Australia demonstrates. It is also widely grown in the southern portion of Oregon, Washington and South Africa. It was first planted in California in 1971 from cuttings from the Hermitage appellation in northern Rhône and Australian Shiraz cuttings (which are said by some to be of Hermitage origin themselves). Current reports indicate total California Syrah acreage to be approaching 13,000 acres. The thick-skinned, very darkly pigmented grapes give inky, deep colored wines described as violet or nearly black. Syrah is very tannic, rich, chewy and textured and is typified by high alcohol and a spice-over-fruit character. The latter tends to be more accentuated in cooler climates where the grapes develop a higher skin-to-pulp ratio. This can be nicely demonstrated by tasting Syrahs from growers spanning the north-south gamut of the Central Coast regions. Although expressivity may vary slightly between different clones, Syrah typically shows black (sometimes white) pepper, licorice, clove, thyme and bay leaf as part of its spice component. The dark fruit typically expressed are blueberries, black currants and blackberries. Syrah may also show cedar or sandalwood notes. As with just about all wines, bottle age brings out terroir and cedar, tobacco, earth and leathery notes. The bio-dynamically farmed Alta Loma Vineyard is located just south of the southwestern corner of the Arroyo Seco AVA. It is tucked against foothills of the Santa Lucia Hills, near the town of Greenfield at the western boundary of Salinas valley. Camp 4 Vineyard is part of the Fess Parker estate in the Santa Ynez Valley. Purchased in 1999, it sits southwest of the Fess Parker winery. Initially planted to 250 acres of Rhône varietals: Grenache (25 acres), Mourvedre (10 acres), Roussanne (15 acres), Syrah (130 acres) and Viognier (25 acres), the first crop was harvested in 2003. The warmer Santa Ynez Valley climate with warm days and cool nighttime maritime influence makes for an ideal environment for Rhone varieties as well as Cabernet Sauvignon. Planted in 2000 to only Syrah grapes, the 20 acre Hampton Family Vineyard is located in the eastern end of the Santa Ynez Valley. Dale Hampton, one of the area’s most prominent vineyard developers and managers, is the owner and driving force behind this vineyard. Southern exposure is mitigated with north-south running rows, unique “T” trellising which decreases direct sunshine and attendant dehydration, affording the grapes longer hang times and development of more complex flavors. This is all crucial in the eastern end of the Santa Ynez Valley where temperatures here are higher than in the western end of the valley which is closer to the Pacific Ocean and subject to a more potent marine effect. The 2005 year saw an increase in crops over the preceding years. The year is being compared to the acclaimed 1997 vintage because of a very long and generally cool growing season without heat spikes. This long season resulted in extended hang times in even temperatures which gave the fruit good extraction but lower sugar levels. The slow ripening of the fruit is expected to make for elegance and balance in the wines of this vintage. In 2003, winemaker Jim Porter entered the commercial wine making scene in Santa Barbara County. Jim started making home wine with “with kitchen utensils, strainers and trash cans”. Spurred by his successes in home wine competitions, and aided by his connections with various vineyards made through his agricultural irrigation business over the past eight years, Jim was able to put together a winery operation at Fess Parker’s Wine Center in Santa Maria as an alternating proprietor. William James Cellars currently offers Chardonnay, Grenache, Pinot Noir, Roussanne, and Syrah Sourced from all over the Central Coast. With an annual production of 4,000 cases, Jim is moving to an independent wine making facility to be be announced. Their tasting room is located at 113 S. College Avenue in Santa Maria at the corner of Main St. and College Ave.
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