project23 is
a winemaking experiment. It comes at a time when there is much
discussion and criticism of California wines being "too big", "too
extracted", "too ripe", "lacking regional character" and "too hot".
Certainly, that can be said about many wines produced in California.
project23
aims to explore what type of wine could be made by using a different
approach.
A
recent article on
Appellation America by enologist
Clark Smith of
Vinovation gives a good overview of the rise of alcohol
levels in California wine. It also points to historical precedents for
making quality wines by picking with potential alcohol in mind.
Certainly
these wines will be of a different character than most California wines
available today. However, our hope is that they will:
be
more balanced
offer
more structure and complexity
have
greater aging potential
give
better expression of terroir
be
more food-friendly
contain lower levels of alcohol
The
production of these wines as well as the finished products will then be
featured in
redwinebuzz.com. The
winemakers involved will participate in refining the parameters of this
project as well as evaluating the finished wines. They may chose to
blend their finished wines.
project23 asks
all willing wine makers - especially those in the Central Coast, to make
a small amount of wine conforming to parameters below. This will be
an on-going project. Some may be able to participate with the 2007
vintage. Others, may choose to plan for the 2008 vintage. In either
case, all are welcome!
Wines
must
be made from grapes picked at no more than 23.5 degrees Brix.
This is an absolute for
for red varieties. While it would be preferred to use white grapes
registering 22.5 degrees
Brix or less, this may be too confining for
some white varieties. This parameters should be discussed and agreed
upon by participating winemakers. Ultimately, no grapes above 23.5
degrees Brix may be used regardless of variety.
These
parameters are not for the must weight but for the actual readings from the
grapes on the vine. This is with the understanding that must weight
can increase by a point or two after soaking.
No
new barrels are allowed. Barrels should be 1-2 years old or older.
Cooperage selection is left to the winemaker.
Co-fermentation of multiple varieties is permitted as long as the
grapes used meet criterion #1.
While a barrel may be easy
for some to make, others may find this amount cost-prohibitive.
If you already pick at several sugar
levels to blend later, and you have a batch of wine that does not
exceed 23.5 Brix at harvest (no new oak), you may bottle a case or two of that
batch for the project. See below for detailed criteria.
All
interested are invited to join the
project23
discussion forum installed on redwinebuzz.com
here.
(Download the
project23summary).
The Library Tasting for
project23
is currently planned to take place in Monterey County at Hahn Estates in
the Santa Lucia Highlands. However,
scheduling availability of judges and participants may require a change
in venue.
At that event, we will further define the criteria for this style of
wine and discuss what growing and production parameters will help
producers make quality wines that fit the
project23
style.
All participating
winemakers will participate in the tasting and discussion. The following
individuals will head up the tasting panel:
Dan Berger
Wine journalist.
Author. Wine competition judge. 30 year veteran of wine
journalism including San Diego Union, Santa Rosa Press
Democrat, The New York Times, Los Angeles times.
Editor-at-Large and Regional Correspondent for Sonoma
County's Russian River Valley and Green Valley
for Appellation America.
Publishes Dan Berger's Vintage Experiences.
Participation pending scheduling.
Darrell Corti
Owner, Corti
Brothers, Sacramento, CA.
Participation pending scheduling.
Laurie Daniel
Wine writer
since 1993. Wine
competition judge. Published
in San Jose Mercury News, Food &
Wine, Wine Country Living and Wine Enthusiast. Monterey,
San Luis Obispo, and San Benito County correspondent for
Appellation America. Participation pending scheduling.
Tim Gaiser
Master
Sommelier. Education Chair for the American Chapter of the
Court of Master Sommeliers.
Contributing editor for Fine Cooking Magazine,
adjunct professor for the Rudd Center for Professional Wine
Studies at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in
Napa Valley. Participation
pending scheduling.
Alan Goldfarb
Wine writer for
16 years. Published in San Francisco Examiner, the San Jose
Mercury News, Wine Enthusiast, American Airlines’ American
Way, and the Underground Wine Journal
. Regional Editor for
the Napa Valley, (and 14 sub-appellations) for Appellation
America.
Participation pending scheduling.
Michael Jordan
Master
Sommelier. General Manager: Napa Rose, Anaheim.
Participation pending scheduling.
Kyle Meyer
Wine buyer
for the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA.
Participation
pending scheduling.
The
project23
tastings are open to all participating winemakers. Members of the media
interested in covering the event or participating as a judge should
contact us at
23wine@redwinebuzz.com.
All wines will be tasted
blind in two rounds: the first without food and the second with food.
Control wines will be inserted into each round. A control wine may be a
higher alcohol wine, one that has been watered back in production or a
broadly respected wine (low or high alcohol). Aside of decanting, no
other manipulation of the wines to be tasted will occur.
Library Wine Tasting
Schedule
The following is a tentative
schedule and time slots may change as the wine list is finalized:
9:30 am
- Welcome, opening remarks, questions/clarifications regarding
tasting procedures
10:30 am -
whites blind tasting (w/o food)
11:30- reds blind tasting (w/o food)
12:30 pm - lunch
break, informal discussion - or presentations focused on
achieving low alcohol, complex and appealing wines
1:30 pm -
discussion of project23
style, food-friendliness criteria and ratings
2:00 pm - whites
blind tasting (w/ food)
3:00 pm - reds
tasting (w/food)
4:00
pm - summary: results of rankings/revealing the wines, discussion
of 2007 wines tasting (scheduling, location, protocol/program
changes), etc