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The redwinebuzz.com grapes index lists the varieties grown and produced in California's Central Coast. Our aim is to get you, familiarized with these grapes, their characteristics as well as to give you some background on them. Where possible, we also provide a guide to pronouncing these names. See our Pronunciation Guide for an explanation of the notation. Browsing this constantly growing index can be very informative. At redwinebuzz.com we firmly believe that even casual perusing of the material can be an active learning process. |
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A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
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Albariñio (AL-bah-REEN-yoh) [?]
Thought to originate from the province of Galicia, located in northwestern Spain, Albariñio is the main grape of Rias Baixas. This region, close to the Atlantic coast, with estuaries plunging into the mainland of the region has a climate much like that of Santa Ynez Valley. The day time temperatures during the growing season are cooled off by the ocean breezes in both places. Albariñio is the only Spanish wine to be labeled with the variety name and not that of the region of origin. Generally, Albariño wines do not age well and are best enjoyed young. Its bright strong acidity makes it an excellent companion to seafood which , incidentally is one of the staples of Galician cooking. Albariño is just gaining interest in California and is not yet widely planted. Albariño displays very prominent acidity which fades relatively early after bottling – sometimes within months. A dry wine, Albariño typically expresses almonds, apples, citrus, kiwi, flowers, grass, honey and peaches. A mineral element is not uncommon.
Cabernet franc (KA-ber-NAY frahnk) [?]
DNA analysis shows Cabernet franc is, along with Sauvignon blanc, the “parent” of Cabernet sauvignon. It is one of the five main Bordeaux grapes used for making red wines. It is highly resistant to cold winters but not spring frosts. Although it tends to display more fruit and less tannins than Cabernet sauvignon, it may become more herbal depending on vineyard management practices. It is much more often used as part of a blend – most traditionally in Bordeaux or Meritage blends as well as unconventional blends with Rhône varieties, Cal-Itals and Super Tuscans. Compared to Cabernet sauvignon, it is thinner-skinned, ripens earlier and has lower acidity. Cabernet franc displays raspberry, cherry, plum, strawberry, floral notes of violet and sometimes spice. Like Cabernet sauvignon, it is not at its best in excessively cool or excessively warm climates or very rich soils - all of which (along with certain farming practices) tends to bring out vegetal qualities such as bell pepper or asparagus. With bottle aging, it takes on aromas of cedar, olive, cigar box, musk, mushroom, earth and leather.
Cabernet sauvignon (KA-ber-NAY SAW-veen-YOHN) [?]
Often called the "King of wines" and one of the 'big five' of Bordeaux reds, Cabernet sauvignon is the most widely planted among the five and, with over 40,000 acres planted in the state, it is the most successful red wine in California. This is a very adaptable variety with tough skin, which makes the berries quite resistant to disease as well as able to tolerate a degree of rainy weather - which is important at harvest time, since Cabernet Sauvignon ripens later in the season. Until the 1970s, Cabernet sauvignon was produced as a varietal wine in California. With its reputation for longevity and aging, California winemakers began to take example from their Bordeaux counterparts and blend it with other varietals. Soon, the Meritage Association was formed to foster this movement. It usually usually shows black currant, blackberry and black cherry flavors backed by cedar characteristics. Like Cabernet franc, it is not at its best in excessively cool or excessively warm climates or very rich soils. In such conditions, (and with certain vineyard practices such as overly vigorous canopy growth) it tends to express more vegetative qualities and less fruit. Bell pepper and asparagus characteristics (pyrazines) can dominate. In some cases, some relate an aroma similar to camphor, asparagus and green olive as well as spices: ginger, green peppercorn, pimento. With bottle aging, it takes on aromas of cedar, olive, cigar box, musk, mushroom, earth and leather. It is also more tannic (which in youth can give a graphite-like characteristic), longer lived and less approachable in youth than Cabernet franc. Cabernet sauvignon is known for its high levels of extract and tannin. Young varietal wines have very tight, dense structure with powerful tannins which soften somewhat with age. The best Cabernet sauvignon in California comes from Alexander Valley in Sonoma, Napa Valley and Paso Robles. However, you should look out for for offerings from the Santa Ynez Valley – especially Happy Canyon.
Chardonnay (SHAR-do-nay) [?]
DNA profiling at U.C. Davis indicates Chardonnay is a cross between a nearly extinct variety: gouais blanc (now, ironically, a somewhat "undesirable" grape) and an unidentified member of the "pinot" family (most likely pinot noir). Chardonnay requires close attention in the vineyard during ripening as it can quickly lose acidity, resulting in clumsy wine. Hence, its best examples come from cooler climates. Also called Beaunois and Morillon, it ranges from subtle to distinct – depending on winemaking style. It displays crisp aromas and flavors of apples, apricots, citrus, peaches, pears as well as tropical fruit. Floral notes of acacia are also common. Terroir can gain distinct expression in the form of flint, mineral or mint characteristics. The small, thin-skinned Chardonnay grapes tend to make wines that express traits acquired during vinification. Depending on the degree of malolactic fermentation allowed and cooperage selection, butter, cream, vanilla and hazelnuts come forward. Chardonnay also is apt to take on oak characteristics during barrel aging. Perhaps this characteristic may be the reason for the current trend of departure from an overly oaky style which were initially intended to mimic great Burgundian whites.
Chenin blanc (sheh-NOHN blahnk) [?]
Originating from the Loire region in France, Chenin blanc is a vigorous and very productive vine, resistant to many diseases. It is adaptable to a wide array of soil types but does not do well in extremely hot climates. Its growth cycle occurs early in the growing season and so it has managed to be one of the most successful vines in many parts of the world outside of France including Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Chile, Mexico, and South Africa. It is the third most widely planted variety in California. In its most common, dry table wine, incarnation it makes crisp white wine but also a delicate sparkling white wine. Its thin skin makes it susceptible to Botryitis – which, in the right circumstances, results in rich, flavorful dessert wines. In warmer climates and when allowed to overproduce, it has a tendency to be bland and uninteresting despite its high-acid content. In such situations, the wine loses a lot of its varietal characteristics and complexity. In California, it does best in Monterey County and in the Clarksburg AVA (Yolo County). The later is an exception to the trappings of a warmer growing region where producers make conscious efforts to manage their vines to give high quality Chenin blanc. At its best, Chenin blanc displays green fruit, bright acidity and mineral tones. It expresses floral qualities of honey or honeysuckle, honeydew and cantaloupe as well as grassy or hay nuances. The latter can be quite distinct in Chenin blanc from the Loire can have a musty or damp straw/hay quality.
Cinsaut (sin-SOH) [?]
Traced back to the Provence and Languedoc regions of France, Cinsaut is a dark-skinned grape which goes by several names: Cinsault, Hermitage, Oeillade (Australia), Ottanvianello (Italy) and Picardan (in the Rhône). It is a highly productive vine, resistant to drought but its susceptibility to bunch rot makes it better suited to dry climates. By itself, it produces light and perfumy wines which express strawberry flavors, blue fruit and spices. It is most often blended with heavier varietals such as Carignan and produced as a rosé. Depending on terroir, it may be musky or display meat aromas. It is a low tannin wine. In South Africa it was crossed with pinot Noir to create the Pinotage grape. It is also grown in Algeria, Corsica, Lebanon and Morocco.
Counoise (koon-WAHS) [?]
Folklore has this dark-skinned grape originating from Spain in the fourteenth century. A relatively uncommon variety, it is now rarely seen outside of the Rhône and Languedoc regions. Nonetheless, it is one of the key components of many red Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines. It has been used primarily as a blending grape because of its high acidity and spice and pepper notes. These are complemented by soft tannins, moderate alcohol and prominent fruit. This character helps open up Syrah and the shy Mourvèdre. The finished blends tend to be more round and refined. On its own, Counoise has a rich and spicy character, displaying anise, blueberries and strawberries. It makes for fruit-forward wines with soft tannins, high acidity and moderate alcohol.
Crljenak (tsoorl-YEN-ak) [?]
A red (or black, if you prefer) grape of Croatian origins. The name is pronounced: tsoorl-YEN-ack, according to Michael Heim, Professor of Slavic Languages and Literatures at UCLA. The full name, "Crljenak Kaštelanski" is pronounced: tsoorl-YEN-ak kashtel-AHN-ski. While we have not yet identified a translation of the name: "Crljenak", "Kaštelanski" is an adjective meaning "from Kaštela" - fitting, since the grape was identified in a small vineyard in Kaštela, on Croatia's Dalmatian coast. Recent DNA analysis demonstrated this grape to be the parent of the Zinfandel and Primitivo grapes. Previously, it was believed that Primitivo was the parent of Zinfandel - THE grape of California. As offspring of Crljenak, Zinfandel and Primitivo are very closely related and efforts are under way to make the two grapes synonymous in the TTB's lexicon of grape varieties. See Primitivo and Zinfandel, below.
Durif (doo-REEF) [?]
Dr. Francois Durif (working in a nursery in the the Rhône Valley) gave this grape its eponymous name himself. Durif was discovered in the Rhône Valley in the 1870s as a cross between Syrah and the little known Peloursin. The lore of the discovery of this grape varies. The website for the Petite Syrah Advocacy Organization, (P.S. I Love You), suggests a serendipitous discovery. Other sources describe the grape as a result of a conscious effort to create a variety with greater resistance to powdery mildew than Syrah. In the late 19th century, California growers confused Durif for a clone of Syrah and Durif was planted side-by-side with Syrah vines. Because of its lower yields, they called it Petite Syrah. The “petite” (French for ‘small’) part of the name refers to the size of the berries. Analysis at U.C. Davis (in 2003, by Dr. Carole Meredith) verified that Petite Syrah is in fact Durif and showed that some California vines thought to be Petite Syrah were, in fact, Peloursin, Pinot Noir or Syrah – to name just the major ones. Since 2002, TTB regulations permit varietal labeling with: “Durif” and the alternate spellings: “Petite sirah” and "Petit syrah" as synonymous with Petite Syrah. Although it resists powdery mildew, its tight clusters are susceptible to gray rot. This is much less of a concern in the drier regions of California, Australia and Argentina, which has led to this sturdy variety enjoying greater success in the New World than in France. In fact it is reportedly almost extinct in southern France. With the high tannins comes high acidity and the combination of the two lays the foundation for considerable longevity. While some may find it a lot less distinctive that Pinot noir or Cabernet, it expresses dense blackberry and black pepper.
Fumé blanc (few-MAY blahnk or foo-MAY blahnk) [?]
In 1968 Robert Mondavi changed the style of his Sauvignon blanc from a sweet to a dry style. To mark the difference, he coined the name “Fumé blanc”, which is a combination of the names “Pouilly-Fumé”, (a dry Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley) and “Sauvignon blanc”. See: Sauvignon Blanc, below.
Gewürztraminer (ge-VUHRTS-tra-MEEN-er) [?]
Despite its German-sounding name, this rust-colored (actually, spotted, dark pink) grape originates from Italy. This popular grape makes approachable wines from light yellow, to deep gold, and even almost copper in color. It shows complex aromas and tends to be high in alcohol. Typical aromas and flavors are of exotic fruit such as lychee, peach and mango. It has floral notes of honeysuckle, gardenia as well as rose petals. It can also express various spices. These wines can vary from dense and viscous to dry and acidic. Because this grape tends to express some bitterness with increasing ripeness, it is often made to have some residual sugars. It does well as a late harvest dessert wine. Gewürztraminer originated in Italy's Tyrollean Alps. It is descendant of Traminer (after the Italian village of Termeno or Tramin) grape which has a tendency to mutate. The name is commonly translated to mean ‘spicy traminer’ but it would seem, by virtue of its character, a better translation is ‘perfumed Traminer’. It is susceptible to damage from frost because it buds early in the Spring. It is also vulnerable to viruses. It can attain very high sugar concentrations and so there are a number of attendant pitfalls: Alcohol can soar – especially in dry versions, at the same time, acids and pH can be low. There is a fairly narrow window for picking ideally mature and ripe Gewürztraminer. Because of these traits, it requires a moderate climate: in warmer climates it becomes cloying and loses varietal character, and in colder climates it becomes neutral. While the best European Gewürztraminer comes from Alsace, Austria, Germany, and northern Italy, it does well in Australia, New Zealand, British Columbia, Oregon, Washington and the cooler microclimates in California: Mendocino, Monterey, Russian River Valley and Sonoma. Also called: Traminer Musque.
Grauburgunder (GRAU-bur-goon-der) [?]
See: Pinot gris.
Grenache (Grenache noir) (gren-ASH. gren-ASH noo_AHR) [?]
Although it is generally thought of as a Rhône variety Grenache (Grenache noir and its relatives Grenache blanc and Grenache gris) originates from Spain where it is called “Garnacha” where there is twice as much planted as in France. In fact, it is currently the most widely planted red wine variety in the world and goes by many names, depending where it is grown. It has some history in California as it is reported to have been used in the jug wines of the Central Valley for decades, third only to Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. It is only now coming into its own as a varietal and in blends, in no small part due to the successes of the Rhône Rangers. Traditionally, it has been used as a component of red blends (typically in the Northern Rhône), usually as the grape for Rhône rosés and as the main component component in most Southern Rhône red blends. In Spain, it is the main component of red blends from the Rioja and Catalonia. It is a sturdy, prolific variety (hence its utility in the Central Valley jug wines) and tolerates dry and hot climates. Grenache makes for softer, less intensely colored, fruity varietal wines often described as ‘fleshy’, ‘fruity’ and ‘heady’. Hence its versatility in blending: it can soften tannic Syrahs and fill out thinner wines. Its distinct sweet, ‘dusty’ and ’fleshy’ mouthfeel is typically supported by flavors of black currants, cherry, licorice and strawberry. Barrel aging can impart vanilla notes. With a heavier oak regiment it can become smoky. Bottle aging will see this variety fading relatively quickly and displaying dried fruit flavors. Despite the tannin and acids, Grenache is not known for its longevity.
Malbec (mal-BEK) [?]
One of the traditional "big five” of Bordeaux, Malbec has lost in standing to merlot. This has been estimated to be as much as a 60% reduction in acreage in the second half of the twentieth century. It is found in all of France under hundreds of names, the most common being Côt. Another name, Auxerrois or Auxerrois noir is derived from Auxerre, a town some 8-10 miles west of the town Chablis, suggests a Burgundian origin, but no conclusive evidence has been brought to light as of yet. Malbec is sensitive to frost. Although it ripens in midseason, many feel it needs extended hang time in order to avoid “green” flavors or challenging tannins. Its biggest Bordeaux stronghold is in the Medoc where it is used to strengthen color and tannin content of blends. Currently, Malbec thrives, and is most extensively cultivated, in Argentina where it is the dominant variety and spelled “Malbeck”. In Argentina, it produces, soft, deeply colored, juicy wines – thanks to the long, warm growing seasons. Interestingly, Argentine Malbeck is felt to be more age worthy than its French counterpart. It also is popular in Chile, Australia, the Iberian Peninsula, South Africa and New Zealand where it is mostly blended into Bordeaux-style wines. In California, Malbec is a relatively minor and relatively new player. It’s presence may be credited to the Meritage movement. Malbec’s character has been described as intermediate between Cabernet sauvignon and Merlot. Its most distinct characteristics are deep color, low acids and high tannin content. Aromas and flavors include: anise, black currants, cherries, plums and a floral characteristic often described as “violets”. Farming and vinification choices as well cooperage can bring in coffee, chocolate, leather and vanilla.
Malvasia bianca (mal-VAY-zyah BYAHN-ka) [?]
Malvasia bianca originates from a Greek family of grapes but is best know for wines originating from Tuscany and Umbria in Italy where it is one of the most widely planted grapes. It is very productive, tending towards large bunches which both have trouble ripening and are susceptible to rot. It is usually made into a lightly sweet style but it can be made into a sparkling or desert wines. In the case of the later, the grapes are first dried, then crushed and vinified. Malvasia bianca is also used as a blending grape - usually with Trebbiano. Malvasia bianca wines are typically floral and perfumed with flavors of honey, pears and spices.
Marsanne (mahr-SAHN) [?]
Marsanne, with its amber-colored berries, is believed to be northern Rhône origin. Specifically, it is named after the town of Marsanne, near Montélimar in the northern part of the Rhône valley. With a heritage of being used to soften Roussanne and Viognier in blends, it is becoming more frequently seen as a varietal wine. In fact, Marsanne is slowly gaining in popularity (and acreage) not only in Europe, but in Australia and North America. The Rhône Rangers have no doubt been instrumental in growing Marsanne’s popularity. This hardy, highly productive vine produces tight clusters which are susceptible to powdery mildew and other infestations. It does well in blends with Roussanne which can be more austere. It’s acidity is dependent on a cooler climate and, in cases where the acidity of the wine is in fact high, there is a tendency towards great longevity. Marsanne does best in the northern Rhône regions and cooler climates in California. This wine is highly sensitive to the climate and deviations, in either direction, form its temperature “sweet spot” results in bland, simple, sometimes flabby wines. Its best examples range from a straw to deep golden color. They are full bodied, rich and viscous in mouthfeel. Marsanne displays melon, citrus, tropical fruit, almonds or marzipan, honeysuckle and wild flowers as well as mineral characteristics.
Merlot (mer-LOH) [?]
Merlot has a flavor profile similar to Cabernet sauvignon, with less distinctive and slightly more herbaceous aromas and flavors. Because of its lower tannins and more forward fruit, it is more approachable than Cabernet sauvignon. Although it is beloved by many for its approachability and is a dominant part of California and Bordeaux red wines, Merlot is fickle about its weather: it requires a moderate and dry growing region and climate to be at its best. Merlot shows more of the green and herbaceous characteristics when either under- or over- ripe.
Mourisco (moo-REES-koh) [?]
This grape is regarded as the lowest in quality of all the traditional Port varieties because of its susceptibility to infestations (by parasitic plants, fungi, lichens) which reduce yields and results in poor quality wines. Read more about Port.
Mourvèdre (more-VAY-dreh or more-VEH-dreh) [?]
Mourvèdre is another Spanish native which has spread throughout the world, often assuming different names. In Spain, it is known by the additional name of Mataro, after a town near Barcelona. In the Alicante and other regions of Spain it goes by the name Monastrell. It is said to have been brought to the Rhône Valley (but also Provence and the Languedoc-Roussillon) from the area around the Spanish town of Murviedro – hence the French name. In Spain, it is the second most widely planted variety, after Grenache but leads in acreage in southern Spain. Mourvèdre buds and ripens late and thrives in hot (but not dry) climates producing small, thick-skinned berries. It is vigorous but does not overproduce and is very adaptable to various soil types. This means it does not consume much time and resources in its management. It is also resistant to fungal diseases. It proved to be difficult to graft onto Phylloxera-resistant rootstock and following a vast 19th century Phylloxera infestation its acreage dropped. With identification of compatible rootstock and active efforts to bring the variety back, it has experienced a comeback since the second half of the 20th century. Mourvèdre probably came to California in the 1800's from the area around Barcelona and hence it was known as Mataro. It’s current planting in California is estimated to be in excess of 500 acres with the largest plantings reported to be in Contra Costa County. Tablas Creek Vineyard in the western portion of Paso Robles, grows Mourvèdre from vines imported from France. Mourvèdre is also being grown in Algeria, Australia and Spain with considerable success. Historically, it has been used as part of red blends but is coming to light as an increasingly more common varietal bottling. Mourvèdre is characterized by intense color, meaty or gamey character and herbal elements. It has good aging potential owing to its high tannins. Prominent also, is a leathery quality and along with the game qualities can make for a strong animal-like character. This may be mistaken for Brettanomyces contamination but evolves into more subtle, earthy characteristics with time. It is this animal-like element that may have kept varietal Mourvèdre wines from gaining popularity. This character is softened by the juicy fruit flavors in Cinsault or Grenache and, conversely, it gives body and structure to wines dominated by these varieties. This gamey, animal character also complements the spice and tannins and Syrah. The spice and herbal dominant characteristics of Mourvèdre include: black pepper, cinnamon, clove, sage, thyme are sometimes accompanied by leather and truffle and can dominate and lean towards a greener character when the grapes are picked under-ripe. The most common fruit flavor is of blackberries, sometimes backed by floral, violet aromas.
Muscat (MUS-kat) [?]
The name Muscat refers to a large family of grapes used for table grapes, raisins and wine. Its ubiquity suggests it is one of the oldest species of grapes used by man and some theorize that this family is the progenitor of most Vitis vinifera species. This also makes it difficult to trace its origins but it is felt to be of Mediterranean descent. As a plant, the muscat family is typified by low vigor and does poorly in dry, sandy, shallow soils. Because of its early budbreak, it is susceptible to frosts. Additionally, it buds early and as such, is also prone to coulure. Members of the Muscat family range from white to a very dark, nearly black color. Although there are numerous varieties, there are generally three that are most common and most significant: Muscat Blanc, whose full name is: Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (MUS-kat blahnk ah puh-teet grehn [?]) is regarded as the greatest Muscat grape and, like Pinot gris, can have a mosaic of small, differently colored berries on a single cluster. It is the most widely cultivated species of Muscat and felt to best typify the Muscat traits. In France it is also know as Muscat Frontignan, Muscat d'Alsace and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise while in Italy it is called Moscato di Canelli. Muscat of Alexandria is also know as Moscatel and tends to be less aromatic, more syrupy and sweet. This variety is used for California raisins and table grapes elsewhere. Muscat Hamburg, also known as Black Muscat (a descendant of Muscat of Alexandria) is also mostly grown for table grapes. However, this black grape makes phenomenal dessert wine, as exemplified in Quady Winery’s “Elysium” All Muscat wines share a distinct, sweet, floral and perfumed aroma which is easily identified. Melon, orange and peach are typical fruit aromas, while coriander (cilantro) and terpine (a woody, perfumy aroma akin to resin from coniferous trees) are also common descriptors for some of Muscat’s aromatic components.
Muscat canelli (MUS-kat KA-nellee) [?]
A late-ripening variety, part of very large and very old Muscat family thought to originate from the Mediterranean region. While it is cultivated in many countries, from Austria, Germany, Hungary and France it develops the most intense varietal character in warm climates. It is typically perfumed and floral with melon and peach flavors alongside the characteristic muscat aroma.
Petite Syrah (puh-TEET suh-RAH or puh-TEE suh-RAH) [?]
Petite syrah was developed in the Rhône Valley in the 1870s as a cross between Syrah and Peloursin and named Durif. Dr. Francois Durif (working in a nursery in the the Rhône Valley) gave this grape its eponymous name himself. The lore of the discovery of this grape varies. The website for the Petite Syrah Advocacy Organization, (P.S. I Love You), suggests a serendipitous discovery. Other sources describe the grape as a result of a conscious effort to create a variety with greater resistance to powdery mildew than Syrah. Petite Syrah is the preferred name in California. Again, accounts vary and some sources state that in the late 19th century, California growers confused Durif for a clone of Syrah and Durif was planted side-by-side with Syrah vines. Because of its lower yields, they called it Petite Syrah. The “petite” (French for ‘small’) part of the name refers to the size of the berries. Analysis at U.C. Davis (in 2003, by Dr. Carole Meredith) verified that Petite Syrah is in fact Durif and showed that some California vines thought to be Petite Syrah were, in fact, Peloursin, Pinot Noir or Syrah – to name just the major ones. Since 2002, TTB regulations permit varietal labeling with: “Durif” and the alternate spellings: “Petite Sirah” and "Petit Syrah" as synonymous with Petite Syrah. Petite Syrah has been a bit of a lost child over the course of its history in California and was used to give body and color to jug wines of the Central Valley and even to beef up Zinfandel and give it and other reds from the North Coast additional complexity. While its plantings were at their peak in the 1930’s with an approximated 7,500 acres, currently there are somewhere between 3,000 4,000 acres of Petite Syrah in California. Although Petite syrah resists powdery mildew, its tight clusters are susceptible to gray rot. This is much less of a concern in the drier regions of California, Australia and Argentina, which has led to this sturdy variety enjoying greater success in the New World than in France. In fact it is reportedly almost extinct in southern France. The grape’s high skin-to-pulp ratio results in deeply colored, very tannic wines and hence the motto: “There is nothing petite about Petite syrah” has come to be commonly heard in tasting rooms and read in wine articles. With the high tannins comes high acidity and the combination of the two lays the foundation for considerable longevity. While some may find it a lot less distinctive that Pinot noir or Cabernet, it expresses dense blackberry and black pepper.
Petit verdot (puh-TEET ver-DOH or phu-TEE ver-DOH) [?]
Petit verdot is a lesser known member of Bordeaux’s five noble black varieties. It has long been used as a supportive player in Bordeaux and Meritage red blends. Petit verdot ripens late in the harvest season, which makes it unreliable in cooler climates and is the cause of Petit verdot’s reputation for immaturity. As the autumn weather cools the grapes do not get the warmth and sunshine to reach full ripeness. The cool French autumn also subjects this variety to rains that can cause a whole crop to be lost to grey rot. Hence, in the 1960s, in French vignerons began to shift away from using Petit verdot and acreage of this variety declined over the following years with the Médoc being its stronghold in France. In the 1980s and 1990s, California and Australia growers took a greater interest in the variety and it has found a home in those warmer, dry climates. Current California acreage of Petit verdot is approximated at around 900 acres (slightly less than the 1000 acres reportedly found in France), while Australia has some 4000 acres and, most recently, Chile is reported to have about 350 acres. The consistency of California’s and Australia’s extended growing seasons, free of cold and rain allow Petit verdot to thrive. As a consequence, it is not only maintaining its place in Bordeaux-style blends but is also being bottled as a varietal wine. This is still on a relatively small scale in California. Petit verdot’s contribution to red blends is its tannin structure. It typically constitutes anywhere from 1% to 5% of a blend, although on occasion, it can make for up to 10%. On its own, it is deeply colored – often purple - with high extract of floral and spice aromatics and bold alcohol levels. This is when the grapes are able to fully mature. The beauty of Petit verdot lies in its evolution. In youth, it exhibits aromas that resemble pencil shavings. Some writers also describe a banana-like scent. Violet and leathery aromas evolve with age. Spice and firm tannins are also definitive of this variety.
Pinot grigio (Pinot gris) (pee-noh GREEDZH-yoh, pee-noh GREE) [?]
Know by a number of different names, this grape is a “white” mutant of Pinot noir. It has come to greatest renown in northern Italy, where it is called Pinot grigio. In Burgundy it is know as Pinot gris and Tokay d’Alsace in that region. In Germany, it goes by Ruländer or Grauburgunder. The grape’s color is varied, with berries ranging from blue-gray to pink to rust-brown, often forming a mosaic of colors on a single cluster. It is typified by high acidity which gives it structure and food compatibility. At the same time, this can be balanced by significant sweetness. Skilled vintners are careful to strike a balance as acidity falls rapidly with increasing acidity. Mostly vinified alone, it has been used to add dimension to Pinot noir. Some producers have experimented with blending in other white varieties. Despite the high acidity, Pinot gris is usually best in its youth. Although it tends to be most expressive, and at its best in cooler climates, it is gaining in presence in California, particularly in the Central Coast. Total California plantings are estimated at 2,000 acres. Across the map, Pinot gris ranges from neutral and indistinct to very aromatic. Ripeness and climate have a huge impact as can the use of oak and other vinification methods. These give a range of crisp, light and acidic to rich, curvy and full bodied. In addition to lighter floral aromas, Pinot gris expresses apple, honey, lemon, melons, pear. Cooperage tends to impart almond, butter, cream, smoke and vanilla.
Pinot noir (pee-noh noo_AHR) [?]
For those that have not seen “Sideways”, Pinot noir, the noble Burgundian grape, is often described as "difficult" to grow but the wine is beautiful and complex when circumstances are favorable. It is one of the oldest grape varieties to be vinified. Pinot noir is, in fact, genetically unstable and its spontaneous mutations have given 46 identified clones in France alone. Worldwide estimates range from 200 to 1000 clones. Additionally, Pinot noir is very susceptible to frost at budbreak, pests, fungal and viral infections. The berries of this cool climate-preferring variety are thin skinned and can dehydrate quickly and the wine may not retain its color for long periods or loose its aromas on bottling. Even fermentation is tricky as Pinot noir has a tendency to very tumultuous fermentation which may cause it to violently bubble or “boil” up out of the container. The list is a litany of things that can turn a winemaker’s hair gray. The tiny (~60 square miles) Côte d'Or in Burgundy, France has been the benchmark for Pinot noir for centuries. It is believed that the east-facing slopes of Burgundy make for optimal sun exposure without excessive heat and the chalky, well draining soils retain heat – all of which assist in ripening. Nonetheless, it is planted worldwide. (Perhaps Pinot noir is like Golf: an endless and frustrating pursuit of something great and nearly elusive). It does well in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. In British Columbia and New Zealand. In California, it does well in Carneros and the Russian River Valley regions of the Sonoma AVA in the north. In the Central Coast, Monterey County (particularly, the Santa Lucia Highlands) and the Santa Maria Valley and Sta. Rita Hills produce outstanding Pinot Noir. It is often described as delicate and light bodied and having a soft texture. The aromas and flavors are the most distinct and identifiable and most complex of all varieties. Common fruit aromas are: cherry, raspberry, ripe tomato and strawberry. It can express floral notes or rose or violet. Spice is a big element of Pinot noir: cardamom, caraway, cinnamon, cola, clove, nutmeg, pepper, rosemary and sassafras. Some also describe a peppermint quality. It can also show aromas and flavors that some sources place in the herbal category: beet, black olive, green tomato, green tea, oregano and rhubarb. More earthy elements found in Pinot Noir are earth (moist earth), barnyard, mushroom and truffle. In addition leather, meat (raw or grilled) can also be seen. Most California Pinot noirs made today (with some exceptions) rarely have the make up to last a decade, but better examples can, with age, show tobacco and smoke characteristics.
Primitivo (pri-ME-tee-VOH) [?]
Along with Zinfandel it is the descendant of Crljenak Kaštelanski. Recent DNA analysis demonstrated Zinfandel and Primitivo to be closely related (identical, in the opinion of some) and efforts are under way to make the two grapes synonymous in the TTB's lexicon of grape varieties. Depending on terroir, Primitivo and Zinfandel show very fruity, jammy raspberry, blackberry, boysenberry, cranberry and black cherry - often with a prickly or briary note. Cinnamon and Licorice may also be seen. See Zinfandel, below.
Riesling (REEZ-ling) [?]
Considered by many as one of the best white grapes, Riesling can be traced back to at least 15th century Germany. It has many assets, including versatility: it is made in dry and dessert styles defined by distinct varietal characteristics while reflecting terroir, longevity and a balance of sugars and acidity. Rieslings from the Mosel River region of Germany and the Alsace, France are among the best. In the Mosel River valley, steep hillsides afford the vines plenty of sun exposure and shelter them from winds. This cool climate yields benchmark wines with intense aromas and flavors and low alcohol levels. As a dessert wine, Riesling is made in late harvest, botrytised and ice wine styles. In California, Riesling (a cold weather-loving variety) does well in Mendocino, Monterey and Santa Barbara Counties. In general, these offer well-ripened fruit and racy acidity with bolder alcohol levels. Arroyo Seco Riesling is know for a unique style: a richer concentration of floral (rose petal and violets) and tropical fruit notes than the German offerings along with apple, apricot, peach and pear notes, lower acidity, higher alcohol and minerality. Depending on origin and age, aromas such as diesel, kerosene, petroleum and terpene can be detected.
Roussanne (roo-SAHN) [?]
Following in the footsteps of Viognier whose popularity has risen recently, this rust-colored grape is coming to some considerable attention in California’s Central Coast despite being planted to only some 200 acres. Thought originate from the Rhône Valley and the Isere Valley (in eastern France), the grape all but became extinct as it fell by the wayside because it is so difficult to grow. It is prone to many diseases and vagaries of the climate and gives irregular yields. Dedicated vintners selected more sturdy and consistent clones to breed the weak traits out of the variety. It maintains its place in the Rhône region a part of many white blends with Marsanne and Viognier. At its best, it has high acidity and potential for longevity. It gives rich wines that, with increasing temperature of the growing season or year, gain in alcohol and drop in acidity. At its best, Roussanne can have considerable longevity. Roussanne expresses floral aromas and apricot, honey, pear as well as mineral qualities.
Ruländer (ROO-lahn-der) [?]
See: Pinot gris.
Sangiovese (sahn-jee_oh-VAY-see) [?]
Sangiovese is the staple grape of Chianti where it is generally blended with the red grapes Canaiolo and Colorino and the white Trebbiano. The name originates from the latin: Sanguis Jovis, which means: “blood of Jupiter". Sangiovese gives fruity, moderately acidic wines with a medium body. Most commonly expressed are aromas and flavors of strawberry, blueberry, orange peel and, occasionally, plums.
Sauvignon blanc (SAW-veen-YOHN blahnk) [?]
Thought to originate from France’s Loire Valley, Sauvignon blanc was first brought to California from Sauternes in the 1880s. It quickly gained popularity and thrived in the Livermore Valley. In 1968 Robert Mondavi changed the style of his Sauvignon blanc from a sweet to a dry style. To mark the difference, he coined the name “Fumé Blanc”, which is a combination of the names “Pouilly-Fumé”, (a dry Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley) and “Sauvignon blanc”. Following suit with Mondavi (and on his encouragement), many American producers still use this name with considerable variation. Some examples we have encountered include a blend of Sauvignon blanc and Semillon (a rather common practice in California and in Bordeaux). Even individual producers in the Central Coast produce several distinct styles each year including a late harvest, botrytised dessert style. Today, over 15,000 acres are planted to this variety in California. A robust producer, Sauvignon blanc tends to become rather neutral if allowed to overproduce. Nonetheless, it is quite distinct even in its most base form. Although some may expect a "cat box" or “cat piss” characteristic to be part of Sauvignon blanc’s typical flavor profile, it occurs when the grapes are insufficiently ripe. On the other end of the spectrum, melon aromas and flavors come out with increased sun exposure and ripeness. Sauvignon blanc is also marked by mineral and high acidity, even in late harvest offerings. Uniformly, tart white gooseberry characteristics are present in better examples. Other fruit include grapefruit and lime. Lemon grass is another defining characteristic. Vegetal aromas and flavors described as asparagus, bell pepper and grass.
Shiraz (shi-RAZ or shi-RAHZ) [?]
The Australian name for Syrah. While Australia may be planted with a different clonal selection than California, Shiraz and Syrah are essentially the same grape. Most likely named after the ancient Persian city of of Shiraz, this ancient variety was proven by DNA analysis (in part at U.C. Davis) to be a native of the northern Rhône region of France. Some sources suggest that the Shiraz clone is of Hermitage (northern Rhône appellation) origin. Sirah is also an accepted and approved alternate name for Syrah in the US. No matter the name, Syrah generally gives tannic and spicy red wines with some potential for longevity. Syrah is very expressive of climate: in hotter regions like the home of Australia's Shiraz, juicy fruit flavors tend to dominate the spices whereas a cool climate tends to reverse the proportion.
Souzào (suh-ZAH_oo) [?]
A vigorous variety, this northern Portuguese native is one of very few dark grapes whose pulp (and juice) contain pigment and is often used to impart its vivid color to blends. Currently, it is more widely planted in Australia, California and South Africa. Its high sugar content makes for higher alcohol levels. Souzào gives concentrated color and ripe, juicy blackberry, licorice and raisin flavors. Read more about Port.
Syrah (si-RAH) [?]
Syrah is an ancient varietal proven by DNA analysis (in part at U.C. Davis) to be a native of the northern Rhône region of France. Prior to this evidence, its origin was disputed between the Rhône region and that around the Persian city of Shiraz – hence the two names for the grape. Sirah is also an accepted and approved alternate spelling. Syrah gives tannic and spicy red wines with significant longevity. Because of its weight, it contributes body and structure to blends with the softer, fruitier Grenache and Mourvèdre. In the southern Rhône, these varieties make up the core of Châteauneuf du Pape reds. Syrah not only needs hot climates but thrives in them - as its rapid propagation in California and Australia demonstrates. It is also widely grown in the southern portion of Oregon, Washington and South Africa. It was first planted in California in 1971 from cuttings from the Hermitage appellation in northern Rhône and Australian Shiraz cuttings (which are said by some to be of Hermitage origin themselves). There was a surge in planting of the variety seen in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Current reports indicate total California Syrah acreage to be approaching 20,000 acres - which makes up about four percent of California's vineyards. San Luis Obispo County leads the state with some 2,500 acres within its boundaries. The thick-skinned, very darkly pigmented grapes give inky, deep colored wines described as violet or nearly black. Syrah is very tannic, rich, chewy and textured and is typified by high alcohol and a spice-over-fruit character. The latter tends to be more accentuated in cooler climates where the grapes develop a higher skin-to-pulp ratio. This can be nicely demonstrated by tasting Syrahs from growers spanning the north-south gamut of the Central Coast regions. Although expressivi