September 2006
The family of California AVAs may be growing. Appellation status legitimizes the wines made in a particular area and so for several years, there has been an effort to establish the Los Alamos Valley as an appellation. Similarly, and because of the success and reputation seen with wines made from grapes from Happy Canyon, that area is also pursuing AVA status. In addition, regardless of the success or timeline of the Los Alamos Valley's application, the Santa Maria Valley is being expanded.
The large Santa Barbara County appellation with over 21,000 acres of vines, currently encompasses the Santa Maria , Santa Ynez and Sta. Rita Hills AVAs. These distinct regions display varying microclimates. Since microclimate and terroir distinguish wines, growers seek out appellation status because it establishes identity and bolsters the reputation of the wines produced. It also tells the consumer that wines labeled with the appellation will reflect its unique character. That is why there have been movements underway to distinguish these subregions with their own appellation status. Currently, these are Los Alamos Valley (lying between the Santa Maria and Santa Ynez Valleys map) and Happy Canyon (or Happy Valley to some, in the south-eastern corner of the Santa Ynez Valley map). Alongside these pursuits, is a movement to expand the Santa Maria Valley AVA.
Los Alamos Valley
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The Los Alamos Valley straddles Highway 101 around the town of Los Alamos ('The Cottonwoods' in Spanish) from the Lompoc Valley (in the west) to just past Cat Canyon where the Santa Maria Valley and Santa Ynez Valley AVAs meet at Foxen Canyon Road (to the east). Its northern boundary is defined by the Solomon Hills and in the south by the Purisima Hills. This valley lies essentially in an east-west orientation between the two established appellations. This intermediate geographic location makes for an intermediate climate. The temperatures here are on average 10 degrees Fahrenheit warmer than in the Santa Maria Valley and 10 degrees cooler than in the Santa Ynez Valley. |
"What impresses me the most about the Los Alamos Valley is the great number of varieties that will do well here, including Italian varieties. Is a varied microclimate. It's cool (Climate Region 1) but also warm enough to mature grapes" says Louis Lucas who has been growing wine grapes in the valley since 1980. Although subject to a strong marine influence, the Los Alamos Valley does not necessarily get hotter from west to east end. Parts of Cat Canyon, in the valley's eastern end, can experience very cold temperatures. White Hawk vineyard has seen snow and frost (according to Rhonda Rantz, Tasting Room Manager at Cottonwood Canyon Vineyards and Winery, whose husband, Mark, helped develop White Hawk Vineyard in the 1990s). However anecdotal, this goes to illustrate the valley's varied and cool climate.
The total acreage of the Los Alamos Valley is greater than that of any other established AVA in Santa Barbara County (Santa Maria Valley's 7,500 acres being the largest). The soils in the Los Alamos Valley are generally well-draining (some vineyards are located on top of ancient sand dunes). The valley is home to small and large vineyards alike. The more notable local names with vineyards or wineries in the valley are: Babcock Vineyards, Bedford Thompson Winery and Vineyard, Chimere, Lafond, Lucas & Lewellen, Melville, Mosby Winery, Sanford Winery & Vineyards, White Hawk and White Horse. In addition, large concerns like Beringer & Meridian, Kendall Jackson and Sutter Home have substantial holdings in the valley.
We discussed the history of the quest for appellation status with Louis Lucas and Jim Fiolek, Executive Director of the Santa Barbara County Vintners' Association. Louis told us that although much of the legwork in the 5 year endeavor to obtain AVA status has been done with the support of by Beringer Wines, the process stalled in 2004. This coincides with two things: the change of ownership of Beringer and the Homeland Security Act of 2002 coming into effect. The act (which divided the responsibilities of the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (ATF) among several new organizations) established the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB). The TTB took over the responsibility of regulating appellations. It seems from our interviews that in this transition, the application process encountered some bureaucratic difficulties.
Although we are told that Beringer never withdrew its support of the AVA application, it may be that with a change in ownership (Beringer is now owned by Foster's USA - yes... beer, mate), the interests and priorities of Beringer Wines may have shifted. Because a large portion of acreage in the Los Alamos Valley is held by big scale producers (who own vineyards in other regions or appellations) the wines from grapes grown in the Los Alamos Valley may be blended with wine from grapes from lesser regions. Such a wine could not be labeled as originating from either region, but it could be labeled "California" or "Central Coast". It could also be produced in much larger quantities. With three major producers holding large amounts of acreage in Santa Barbara County, AVA status for Los Alamos Valley may not only not be a priority but also possibly a hindrance. Before this begins to sound like the theme from Mondovino, it is important to reiterate that Beringer never abandoned the AVA application process. The process is as much an interest to small vineyards as it is to large conglomerates. However, large wine producers have the personnel and time and capital (and political momentum) to affect the process while smaller scale growers are often consumed with daily operations. Louis Lucas hopes that with the recent acquisition of Byron Winery by Kendall-Jackson (with large holdings in the Los Alamos Valley), the process can be resumed under new leadership. With vines on both sides of the AVA boundary, Kendall-Jackson may stand to benefit and have the motivation to take the lead on the AVA application process.
Santa Maria Valley
The Santa Maria Valley AVA (northern portions of which reach into San Luis Obispo County) will also be expanded in a southwest direction (map). This is, in part, to correct for the Solomon Hills Vineyard (west of Telephone Road) having been left out of the Santa Maria AVA when it was originally designated. Nicholas Miller at Bien Nacido Vineyard (which owns Solomon Hills Vineyard) provided us with the information regarding the AVA's expansion. This move goes as much to secure Santa Maria Valley AVA status to all of Bien Nacido's vineyards as to protect other acreage from being assigned to a different, yet unproven, AVA. The other vineyard to be included in the correction is Le Bon Climat (Jim and Morgan Clendenen's vineyard).
Happy Canyon
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Happy Canyon, in the southernmost end of the Santa Ynez Valley, delves into the San Rafael Mountains just northeast of Lake Cachuma. It lies approximately 3 miles to the east of Highway 154, and some 5 miles from Los Olivos or Santa Ynez. Located at different elevations, the four vineyards of Happy Canyon (some call it Happy Valley): Barrack, Starlane, Vogelzang and Westerly are situated at different elevations and on different soils. At the hotter end of the Santa Ynez Valley, Happy Canyon maintains the theme of warm days and cool marine influence with a few variations. |
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What makes Happy Canyon so interesting is its hot climate. If the Sta. Rita Hills at the western end of the Santa Ynez Valley approximate the ideal climate for Pinot Noir, then the hot Happy Canyon and its rolling terrain, high slopes and varied soils are felt to be the best area in the Central Coast for growing Bordeaux varieties. The microclimates of higher elevations in this region have less diurnal temperature variation because the days stay cooler and the nights stay warmer than at lower elevations. Such moderate climate is optimal for the maturation of: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Sauvignon Blanc. The heat is also good for Syrah and other Rhône varieties. Closer to the floor of the canyon (such as at Vogelzang Vineyard) the heat starts earlier and persists longer but is dissipated by afternoon marine winds. Bordeaux and warm climate Rhône varieties do well here as well.
The soils in Happy Canyon range from sand and gravel to loam (rich soils composed of sand, silt and clay mixed with organic matter) with good drainage in areas like Starlane Vineyard which is up against the foothills of the San Rafael Mountains. Westerly Vineyard, on the other hand, has shallow nutrient-poor topsoil which lays on top of a layer of clay the vine roots cannot penetrate. Subsequently, the vines are stressed and grow less vigorously but are said to produce highly concentrated. A similar condition exists in Vogelzang vineyard. Like its other lower elevation neighbors, this vineyard sits atop shallow, well-draining, nutrient-poor topsoil which reduces vigor and allows for greater concentration of color and flavors.
According to Jim
Fiolek, Happy Canyon in
the middle of organizing and detailing the
geologic, geographic and climatic information necessary for the AvA
application. Mary Beth Vogelzang has been leading the effort.
Calls and emails to Vogelzang Vineyard were not returned and the status
of the process is not readily known.
Formal AVA status does not change the wine. It does, however, identify wines with more defined growing regions. It helps consumers make buying decisions and builds confidence. On the other side of the coin, AVA designation puts the impetus on resident wineries to produce best quality wines most expressive of their region. It is our hope that both the Los Alamos Valley and Happy Canyon obtain AVA status and continue to enrich the spectrum of Central Coast wines.
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This Month's Wine Reviews:
Cal-Itals/Super Tuscans:
00 Mckeon-Phillips Ceazar 90 points
03 Mandolina Toccata Riserva 91 points
03 JanKris Riatta 89 points
04 Presidio Sangiovese 89 points
Consilience Winery:
04 Grenache 90 points
04 Zinfandel, Mendocino County 90 points
05 Grenache Blanc 92 points
05 Grenache Rosé 89 points
Whites:
Non-Vinatage Chardonnay, Cottonwood Canyon 93 points
05 Koehler Viognier 89 points
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