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September 2006 Wine Tasting Notes: Nonvintage Cottonwood Canyon Bistro Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County.
More Cottonwood Canyon reviews Detail This wine was cold fermented and aged 14 months in French and American oak. This non-vintage Chardonnay is made from equal proportions of 2002 Cottonwood Canyon fruit and 2003 White Hawk Vineyard (Los Alamos) fruit. The 2002 year saw a long and dry growing season of mild temperatures which gave the fruit extended time to develop complexity and depth. In addition, minimal heat peaks allowed the grapes to develop high acid levels. The 2003 year, on the other hand, challenged wine growers all over California with recurring unseasonable weather. Nevertheless, the fruit was particularly dense in flavor. This particular set of climatic circumstances was favorable for Chardonnay. Cottonwood Canyon Vineyard & Winery was founded in 1988 by Norman and Sharon Beko as a small, ultra-premium winery specializing in Estate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. At the time of its founding, there were 46 acres of 15 year-old Chardonnay. The current estate of 78 acres is planted to 18 acres of Pinot Noir, less than 18 acres of Chardonnay and 5 acres of Syrah. Located 19 miles from the ocean, the vineyard benefits from a strong marine influence. White Hawk vineyard, near Los Alamos on Cat Canyon Road in Santa Barbara County is owned by the Henley family. Sitting at an elevation of 900 feet, 21 miles from the Pacific Ocean, the vineyard is planted atop very well drained sandy soil. In fact, the soil of this south-facing vineyard is composed of ancient sand dunes. By accounts of some people involved in the vineyard's development, the site combines the highly draining soils with very cool temperatures. Norman Beko distinguishes himself by striving to create wines which are age worthy. His approach to wine making results in a clear fruit-forward, Old World character in his wines. One of the ways he achieves this is with cold-fermenting the fruit for extended periods (42 to 47 days for this wine as compared to the standard 2 weeks for most Chardonnays). Cottonwood Canyon wines tend to be lower in alcohol than others from the region. Norman also tends to release his wines after considerable bottle aging. This is exemplified in this offering, which benefits from two quality growing seasons and premier growing regions. In addition to releasing aged Pinot Noir, Bordeaux Blends, Chardonnay and Vintage barrel select wines, he also has a "Bistro" line of "everyday" wines which includes this Chardonnay and a 2003 Syrah.
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