October, 2006
It seems natural these days to expect that wine be drunk from stemmed glasses. There is a romance to pouring wine into brilliantly clear bowls atop slender stems as if raised up on a pedestal. You can sip it from fine stemware, quaff it from clear conical plastic cups at fundraisers or chug it from any other container available on hand but there is an air of elegance around a table set with wine glasses. With a wide array of styles, materials, shapes and sizes, the selection of stemware may seem confusing to many.
Join us as we look at a bit of the history of crystal stemware, the types of materials used, the styles of stemware and the reasons behind their design. While wine can be enjoyed from just about any drinking vessel, we will arm you with the basic information to help you make informed purchasing choices.
A Little History
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It was around the fifteenth century that the first European wine glasses with a stem and a foot began to appear. In the 17th century, lead crystal technology was being applied to the stem design and in the eighteenth century, wine glasses with straight stems were becoming widely popular. It took millennia to arrive at the fine crystal stemware of today. This evolution was reflective both of style, preference and available technology. As with wine itself, science has provided the springboard for the most significant developments. |
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Glass and glass making dates back to around 3000-2000 BC. The art of forming sand into glass has been traced back to Mesopotamia – where artifacts of manufactured glass have been found. Blown glass has been traced back to the Eastern Mediterranean, in the first century BC. The spread of the Roman Empire facilitated the spread of this technology. Drawing on Near East traditions, the Venetians developed a brilliant glass crafted into various styles in the thirteenth century. By the fifteenth century, the most notable and acclaimed were the elegant glass products from the Island of Murano.
Another two hundred years later, an Englishman, George Ravenscroft discovered a more brilliant glass could be made with the addition of lead oxide. This glass was not only clearer, without the typical greenish tint, it was also softer and could be cut into decorative patterns more easily. The major revolution came in the 1950s, when Claus J. Riedel (heir to an Austrian crystal manufacturing company dating back to 1678) began designing wine glass shapes for specific wines. With its line of glasses designed to suit the character of specific wines, Riedel Crystal has emerged as the leader in high-end stemware.
The Science and Technology
Lead crystal is more brilliant and softer than regular glass, making it easier to cut. It is also more durable and resilient to breakage. Typical lead content of crystal ranges from 24% to 36%. Since higher lead crystal is harder to form, most crystal contains levels of lead closer to 24%. Of late, there has been an emergence of lead-free crystal. Acidic solutions (such as wine) have been demonstrated to cause leaching of very minute amounts of lead from crystal into the liquid. This is dependent on the lead content of the crystal, the acidity of the liquid and the duration the two are in contact. Thus, decanters are more likely to release more lead into wine than glasses.
It needs to be stressed that these levels are very minute, but with recurring use of lead crystal and the subsequent exposure, lead can build up in the body to clinically significant levels. In cases of significant accumulation of very high levels, clinical symptoms of lead poisoning may appear. That is why wine should not be stored in lead crystal containers for extended periods of time. More than a risk to consumers, production of leaded crystal poses a hazard to the health of those manufacturing it, since they are exposed to lead-laden vapors. There are also environmental concerns regarding disposal of byproducts of lead crystal manufacturing.
Glass and crystal manufacturers have long sought an alternative to lead crystal. The new material would have to be equally clear, durable and easy to work with as lead crystal. To increase durability and strength of stemware, manufacturers of crystal stemware heat-temper the rim, stem and foot. While this practice does make these high-risk areas of a wine glass a bit tougher, it does not achieve significantly higher levels of durability. European researchers pursuing alternate materials found that metals such as bismuth, barium, strontium, zinc and titanium do not pose any risk to safety during manufacturing, consumer use or disposal of manufacturing byproducts. Furthermore, glass containing these metals offers the same quality, performance and brilliance as lead crystal. The main alternative metals in crystal today are titanium and magnesium.
Titanium metal is lightweight and strong and, when incorporated into glass, does not leach from the crystal into wine. The resulting glass, developed by the German company Schott Zwiesel, is amazingly durable. Their Tritan line of stemware is dishwasher safe and extremely durable. Magnesium incorporated into glass makes for smooth and flexible crystal. Developed by the Austrian manufacturer Inn Crystal, this amazingly lightweight Magic stemware line offers outstanding durability. It is distributed by Oneida.
This newly-gained durability allows for the convenience of washing stemware in automated dishwasher machines. While washing stemware this way is convenient and worry-free - owing to these new materials - you may want to verify for yourself that there is no residual film, aroma or flavor of detergent or sheeting agents on the glass. This residue may alter the taste of the wine. On a recent trip through wine country, we walked into a tasting room where many visitors were remarking how prominent the smell of “lemon grass” was in the wines being poured. It may have had something to do with the can of lemon-scented wood cleaner on the counter. It was being used to clean the shelf where the tasting glasses were arranged, bowl-down. The fragrance of the wood cleaner had settled on the glass from just a brief exposure.
In our opinion, nothing is better than hand-washing, thoroughly rinsing and hand-drying stemware – no matter how durable it is. Lint-free towels are absorbent towels usually made of microfibers. They dry and polish your crystal without leaving lint - which doesn't complement the appearance or mouth feel of wine. The Riedel web site has a nice cleaning guide in their information section.
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But let’s get back on track. Plain glass and crystal (lead, titanium or magnesium – based) are the main materials available today. These are shaped into all shapes and styles and sometimes colored. The question, then, is why the shapes and do they make a difference in the smell and flavor of the wine being poured? Should you drink champagne (err… sparkling wine) from a glass or a flute? Can you drink Viognier from a Burgundy glass? Is the big glass for white or red wine? The answer is an all-encompassing “Yes!”... with a caveat. |
Stemware selection is primarily a matter of style and preference. However, the most advanced stemware design is based on the nuances of the esoteric science of smell and taste. There are differences between the same wine drunk from a generic, “all-purpose” glass and from one designed specifically for that wine. These differences depend on the wine and can range from subtle (most noticeable to the supertasters – that 1/3rd of the population with the sensitivity to discern the most subtle of wine’s characteristics) to obvious to the least sensitive palates. These differences are very real and not shouold not be dismissed as highbrow or hype.
The leader in stemware design based on smell and taste science has been Riedel. As the official story goes, Professor Claus J. Riedel worked with wine tasters to design glasses that maximized the enjoyment of the aromas and flavors of wines. In addition, his designs were minimalist: thin blown glass without decorative patterns or colors. In the 1950s, he experimented with and tested his designs against the leading palates of the time. Riedel’s designs were guided not only by the impressions of these tasters but also on the characteristics of wines made from different varietals and on scientific data about the senses of smell and taste.
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There are no individual taste buds specializing in specific flavors, but rather regions of the tongue which respond more than others to specific flavors or profiles by virtue of their representation in the brain (we see, hear, touch, smell and taste with our brains; the organs we most immediately associate with those senses are merely detectors which relay information to our brains). Taste buds are distributed all over our tongues. As a general rule, the tip of the tongue registers sweetness with greater sensitivity than other areas, the back of the tongue reacts most strongly to bitterness, the sides are better at detecting acidity and the areas towards the middle detect saltiness with most sensitivity. This "taste map" dates back to 1901 and has been tested, challenged, disproved and proved again over time and it has persisted. |
The shape, size and curves of the Riedel bowl are said to be customized to the specifics of a wine's bouquet, dictate specific head positions and to direct the flow of the wine towards the areas of the tongue where its best traits will be accentuated. Even the treatment (or finish) of the rim matters. According to Riedel, cut rims allow the wine to flow smoothly onto the tongue and rolled rims inhibit smooth flow, spilling the wine onto the tongue and enhancing acids and tannins. The philosophical question remains whether the average wine drinker or lover will appreciate what may be very subtle differences in the flavors of the same wine drunk from glasses with the two different types of rims.
Making a Choice
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Wine glasses go by different names, depending on the manufacturer. Still, there are basics of size and shape that are ideal for categories and event individual wines. One thing they all (with one exception) have in common is the stem. Why a wine glass has a stem is a bit of a "chicken or the egg" question. The stem adds elegance and esthetics but it also keeps the bowl clean and clear of fingerprints and smudges so you can enjoy the wine's color. Human hands are rich in blood vessels which makes them very good at transferring body heat to whatever they touch. Holding the glass by the stem, keeps the wine at it original temperature. Warming a wine just a few degrees will change its aroma and flavors noticeably. Choosing the right stemware for you is not as difficult as the broad selection of styles and manufacturers would suggest. While reading our summary of glass styles, think about what wines you most often drink and what you are willing o spend on stemware. |
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A loose rule is that the darker the wine (or the greater the age), the larger the bowl and the sweeter the wine (or higher the alcohol) the smaller the glass. Also, the bigger the body of the red or white wine, the bigger the bowl and the wider the opening. This gives the bouquet more room to express itself. Subtle, delicate wines have bouquets that show best in a narrower glass where all those aroma molecules are more concentrated and make a more distinct impression on the nose. If you just want one universal wine glass, keep reading or skip to our tips, here.
So why is Riedel making and selling stemless wine glasses (tumblers)? Very simply: they are answering market demand. The "O" Riedel Collection is a line of wine tumblers without stems and feet (bases). Maintaining the hallmark Riedel bowl design, these glasses are marketed as "trendy, everyday" glasses. No stems, no knocked over glasses and no spills. That's everyday practicality. Let's face it: not everyone holds their glass by the stem (maybe they feel a bit more sure-handed that way). You can enjoy wine or any other delicacy without being a strict adherent to the prescribed etiquette each and every time. Now, all those who have been holding their wine glasses by the bowl don't have to feel as though they're committing some terrible faux pas. Sometimes, you just want to enjoy some Sangiovese in an "O" tumbler with that store-bought self-rising crust pizza at the coffee table while you watch American Idol. The follow-up to the original design features two indentations on opposite sides of the bowl. Intended as 'grips' for thumb and index finger, they are also said to help prevent the wine warming from contact with the hand. Another long indentation jutting straight up from the bottom of the bowl may be also intended to keep the wine from warming up.
Sometimes, though, you want to impress that special someone, create an air of elegance for a special occasion or simply upgrade to a higher standard. There are some basic rules we outlined at the start of this section. The factors that decide which glass is best are focused around the nature and character of each wine's bouquet, flavors and body. Below is a more in-depth review of wine glass styles. Since it is not practical for most people to buy more than a set each for whites and reds, your decision should be based on the types of wines you drink most often.
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White wines are generally best served chilled in glasses with smaller, more slender, medium sized bowls. For young, bright and refreshing whites, choose a glass with an opening that approaches the greatest diameter of the bowl, (like the one on the left side of Illustration 1). The design of this glass is intended to direct the wine towards the tip of the tongue first where the sweetness of the wine will be accentuated and its acidity won't dominate. Young white wines with delicate aromas will also benefit from this style of glass. This design is recommended for: Pinto Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, or Sylvaner. The bowl of the glass style on the right of Illustration 1, is fuller bodied and tapered towards the opening. This is designed to concentrate the aromas of fuller-bodied, mature white wines (think of an oak-fermented, mature Chardonnay). The shape of the glass causes the wine to flow into the mouth more directly and towards the sides and back of the tongue where the softer acids and buttery oak notes will be best showcased without being overpowered by sweetness. This style is recommended for Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier, but makes a very good all-purpose white wine as well as rosés. |
Illustration 1. |
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Rosés, bearing qualities of both white and red wines, require glasses which marry traits of both styles of glasses - if you are an absolute purist. Bowl diameters are generally the same as those of white wine glasses but the bowls are shorter. This allows greater expression of the aromas. A younger, crisper rosé is best enjoyed in a glass which opens wide, flaring a bit towards the opening (left hand side, Illustration 2). This allows the wine to flow towards the sweetness-sensitive tip of the tongue while avoiding initial contact with the bitter-sensing back of the tongue. These glasses are recommended for all rosés including Rhône varietal rosés. A fuller bodied rosé needs a slightly tapered opening to concentrate the bouquet and a smooth, non-flared opening to directs the wine towards the sides and back of the tongue where its body and flavors are best expressed (right side of Illustration 2). This style is also a good all-purpose rosé glass. |
Illustration 2. |
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Young red wines tend to be tannic and assertive in aroma and flavor. Fort this reason, the best glasses for these wines are not that different from those used for mature white wines (left side of Illustration 3). Their fuller bowls give more surface area for the wine to release its bouquet and a tapered mouth both brings the wine's aromas to the nose and directs its flow towards the center and back of the tongue to deemphasize its tannins. Fuller bodied and more mature red wines are more complex than young reds. Taller and with a narrower opening than the glasses ideal for younger red wines, this glass allows for aromas to be optimally concentrated. You can almost imagine the direction of the flow of wine from the glass shape on the right of Illustration 3: the wine is delivered into the middle of the tongue. Both styles will work with Cabernets, Merlot, Syrah, Rhône varietals, Bordeaux blends and Zinfandel, and, depending on your preference, either can be a good all-purpose red wine glass. |
Illustration 3. |
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Mature reds are both complex and delicate. They need the largest bowls of all glasses. This "balloon" design gives the wine maximal surface area to aerate and release its aromas. The shape on the left of Illustration 4 is narrowed but not very tapered at the opening, these glasses direct flow towards the back of the tongue. It is recommended for Cabernet and Bordeaux blends. If you want to cover all bases, this will also work as an all-purpose red wine glass especially if Pinot Noir makes up a large portion of the reds you drink. For very mature reds, with lots of complex aromas derived from terroir and aging, you should choose the shape on the right of Illustration 4. Instead of a straight, minimally tapered opening, this style flares at the top. As with other glasses with this feature, the wine is delivered on the front portion of the tongue. With age, fruit fades but acidity can persist and become overpowering. This type of glass brings out the balance in mature wines by starting contact at the tongue's "sweet-spot". This glass style is recommended for Pinot Noir and very mature reds. |
Illustration 4. |
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Champagne is recommended to be served in a flute or a tall, slender tulip glass (Illustration 5). This primarily showcases the appearance of the wine's bubbles (perlage), but also maintains the wine's temperature and slows down the escape of the bubbles. There are two variations on this style. On the left of Illustration 5 is the narrow, slender glass called a flute. It was designed to enhance the appearance of perlage and the delicate aromas of these wines. A slightly shorter version of this style, called a demi-flute, is ideal for more dry sparkling wines and those which may have less abundant or coarser bubbles. This shape also enhances the appearance of bubbles and the more delicate bouquet of the dryer sparkling wines. The style on the right of Illustration 5, is called also called a flute but has a curvier body. It was designed for mature sparkling wines. Its general long shape showcases the perlage but the slightly fuller body allows for more aeration of the wine while the narrowed opening concentrates the bouquet. |
Illustration 5. |
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You may be
familiar with another champagne glass: it looks like a hybrid
between a red wine glass and a martini glass. While waning in
popularity, it is best for the more aromatic and sweet sparkling
wines. The large surface area of the wine allows it to release
its aromas but not concentrate them so that they will be
balanced and their full spectrum will be appreciated. This once
popular style (fabled to be shaped after Marie
Antoinette's breast) is less stable and does not show off the
perlage of dry sparkling wines as well. But that is not
coincidental as the more aromatic sparkling wines tend to have
significantly less perlage. Since most people drink the more affordable, younger and dryer sparkling wines, any variation pf the flute suitable to your style will probably make a good all-purpose glass for these wines. |
Illustration 6. |
The vast array of wine glass styles can seem dizzying and overwhelming. It's OK to feel that way. There really is a lot of choice out there. We encourage you to visit and browse the Riedel Crystal website. You can learn a lot more about the best glasses for the wines you drink most. Choosing the right stemware for your needs is a balance between fantasy and reality as Riedel stemware gets pricy and not everyone has the resources and space for all those specialized glasses. Once you have learned what you need to make the purchase, you can seek out less expensive alternatives.
As a matter of fact, we emphasize that most wine lovers will be best off buying glasses suited to the types of wines they drink most often. If nothing but the best will do, by all means, splurge and enjoy your investment. If you just want a simple, no-nonsense, worry free and affordable way to enjoy different types wines, make your way to your friendly neighborhood Target store. They have partnered with Riedel to offer the Vivant line of lead-free crystal glasses for whites, reds and Pinot Noirs made of Tyrol crystal (lead free, named after the Tyrol or Tirol province near the Alps) at about the cost of 1 glass from the higher-end Riedel lines. These glasses most likely won't do well in the dishwasher, but they have bowl designs and styling that work well as general purpose glasses both the red and white wine series.
If you would like to not be limited to a particular brand or store, or if you don't care if your stemware is made of glass or titanium crystal, here are some general rules for selecting wine glasses:
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Smooth curves. We recommend bowl shapes which are variations of the sphere or egg shapes, with clean lines and the rim tapering inward at the top (see: Illustrations 1 through 4, above). These can have a "chimney" or a tulip-like flared rim. Glasses with a bell shape or a profile that flares out to an-ever widening rim may have visual appeal but are not practical. These shapes make it risky to swirl or sniff, carrying a high risk of spillage.
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Foot size. If you prefer to have just one set of universal-use wine glasses, pay attention to the proportions of the glass. In particular look at the proportion of the diameter of the bowl at its widest part to the diameter of the foot with some consideration given to height of the stem and the overall height of the glass. There is no clear formula, but a measurement of Riedel glasses shows a pattern: the foot diameter is about 75% (3/4) of the largest diameter of the bowl for the Pinot noir glass and approaches 100% of the largest diameter of the bowl for the Champagne flute. In the spectrum of glass shapes and sizes, the foot-to-bowl ratio tends to increase from about 75% to 100% as the glass becomes more slender and taller. Glasses with this proportion are recommended as they will be more balanced and stable.
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The choice is clear. Stylistic bends aside, colorless glass is our preferred choice. What's the point of spending a hundred dollars or more on a Napa Cabernet, if it's going to look like India ink in a Cobalt-blue glass? Cut crystal can be stunning, but these glasses tend to be top-heavy and imbalanced. Thin-blown glasses may not make the wine smell or taste any better to you, but you have to ask yourself if you enjoy looking at the color and appearance of your wine. If you do, you should choose clear, colorless glasses without any patterns cut, painted or applied in any other manner.
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Cut rim versus rolled rim. Rolled rim glasses have what appears like a rounded bead of glass all around the rim. Cut rim glasses look like the rim has been cleanly cut. While a wine geek might argue that the type of rim affects the flavor of the wine, there are advantages and disadvantages to both. Cut rim glasses might be more likely to chip but rolled rim glasses may accumulate more grime and sediment under the rim. Finally, some report that a rolled rim glass feels more comfortable while others find the rolled rim obtrusive. At redwinebuzz.com, our choice and recommendation favors the cut rim glass.
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Test Drive. When shopping, take each glass out of the box. Inspect them for chips, scratches and bubbles in the glass. See if the foot is flat and level. Does the glass wobble? Poorly made glasses have warped feet which do not provide stability.
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October Wine Reviews:
2000-2001 Cottonwood Canyon Synthesis 91 Points
2001 McKeon-Phillips Cabernet Sauvignon 94 Points
2002 Rio Seco Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Points
2002 Rio Seco Cabernet Franc 89 Points
2002 Lucas&Lewellen Cabernet Sauvignon, Valley View Vineyard 95 Points
2003 Lucas&Lewellen Cabernet Sauvignon Cote Del Sol 91 Points
2003 JanKris Merlot 90 Points
2003 Koehler Cabernet Sauvignon 88 Points
2003 Clautiere Cabernet Sauvignon 93 points
2004 Consilience Cabernet Sauvignon, Camp 4 Vineyard 87 Points
2004 JanKris Cabernet Sauvignon 89 Points
2005 JanKris Cabernet Sauvignon 89+ Points
Tip of the month:
Refrain from opening the wines you just brought home from your trip to wine country. Don't open them for at least a few days. Vibration during travel may cause “Bottle shock”. Aromas and flavors are muted in bottle shocked wine and it may take up to a week for it to recover and settle. Be very careful, also, not to let your newly acquired beauties to be exposed to excess heat during travel. Heat stress can lead to "heat shock". The flavors of the wine will be muted and taste ‘cooked’. Unlike bottle shock, a cooked wine cannot recover.
Get the buzz:
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Wine reviews
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Great stories
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Interviews
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Wine education tools
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New content every month
It's FREE!
Click here
October Wine Reviews:
2000-2001 Cottonwood Canyon Synthesis 91 Points
2001 McKeon-Phillips Cabernet Sauvignon 94 Points
2002 Rio Seco Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Points
2002 Rio Seco Cabernet Franc 89 Points
2002 Lucas&Lewellen Cabernet Sauvignon, Valley View Vineyard 95 Points
2003 Lucas&Lewellen Cabernet Sauvignon Cote Del Sol 91 Points
2003 JanKris Merlot 90 Points
2003 Koehler Cabernet Sauvignon 88 Points
2003 Clautiere Cabernet Sauvignon 93 points
2004 Consilience Cabernet Sauvignon, Camp 4 Vineyard 87 Points
2004 JanKris Cabernet Sauvignon 89 Points
2005 JanKris Cabernet Sauvignon 89+ Points
Get the buzz:
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Wine reviews
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Great stories
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Interviews
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Wine education tools
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New content every month
It's FREE!
Click here
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