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July 2006 Wine Tasting Notes: 2003 Pinot Noirs. The 2003 year presented challenges to wine growers all over California in the form of recurring unseasonable weather and resulted in a smaller yield. Nevertheless, the fruit was particularly dense in flavor and holds a lot of promise for the vintage. This particular set of climatic circumstances was favorable for the Central Coast’s Pinot Noir producing areas. This month, redwinebuzz.com takes a look at several 2003 Pinot Noirs which showcase the interplay of a challenging but rewarding growing year and regional characteristics. We will look at three Santa Maria Valley offerings and one sourced from Santa Rita Hills vineyards. 2003 weather was frequently testy for many growing areas with unusually heavy spring rains, temperate weather in the summer and early autumn heat. Excessive heat affected fruit development for some. Summer cool spells also delayed maturation in other regions. Early autumn rains followed by cooler temperatures delayed harvest for some growers. This resulted in a leaner crop and red wine variety yields 10% lower than in 2002 (according to the California Department of Food and Agriculture in its Preliminary Grape Crush Report). The 2.94 million tons of all varieties of wine grapes obtained in 2003 represent a 5% reduction from the preceding year. Despite the stresses brought on by weather variations, fruit from the 2003 harvest was intense in color and flavor. Juice chemistry parameters indicated a promising vintage. This was felt to be particularly favorable for Pinot Noir. Chardonnay and Syrah were also reported to be promising. In the following discussion of regions which produced excellent Pinot Noir in 2003, it may seem trite to repeatedly say that each of the growing regions touts having some of the coolest growing conditions in California. When you visit the Santa Barbara County wine country in the middle of a hot summer, you will experience first hand the notion of mesoclimate. This is when areas, sometimes only miles apart, vary significantly in temperature due to differences in geographic positioning and features. Finding a suitable mesoclimate is essential to making excellent wines in California's arid heat. Mimicking the climate of the places where the world's finest wines originate, these little nooks and crannies in the landscape are oases of vitcultural opportunity. But it's not just about cool air and fog. These places have the geology most suitable to coax vines to excellence. More on that to come. Three of this month’s wines are from the Santa Maria Valley. This region is among the coolest regions best suited to Pinot Noir. The growing season here tends to be one of the longest in the world with temperatures peaking around 80 degrees Fahrenheit between August and October – right around Pinot Noir harvest time. Soils conducive to bringing out the best in Pinot Noir are complemented by cool marine air. This is a superb setting for Pinot Noir and accounts for wines from this region being major players in the landscape of Pinot Noir. 2003 saw record temperatures during the growing season in the Santa Maria Valley, leading to an early harvest. Warmer than average temperatures throughout the year resulted in budbreak almost a month earlier than usual. Late spring rains fed the vines, but as they continued accompanied by cooler temperatures, fruit yields were less than initially expected. The smaller fruit (in lower than usual quantity) had a longer time than usual to hang on the wine and were intensely concentrated and flavorful. The resulting Pinot Noirs from this area can naturally be expected to be rich and concentrated. The Koehler 2003 Pinot Noir is sourced from the Santa Rita Hills area of the Santa Ynez Valley. This region, although part of the Santa Ynez Valley appellation, is also typified by a cool growing climate resulting in very distinct Pinot Noirs and leading to Santa Rita Hills being given its own appellation status. This appellation, located west of Highway 101, experiences cooler temperatures thanks to winds bringing in marine air. The growing season here is typically among the longest and coldest in the world. A cooler climate, combined with limestone-containing sedimentary soils (in which Pinot Noir thrives), make for an ideal place to grow Pinot Noir. Grapes grown in this region are highly sought after by wine makers throughout California. Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noirs are regarded as highly complex with deep fruit, spice, floral and herbal and earthy notes. 2003 Santa Rita Hills were also affected by the climatic variations seen throughout the state. Fruit yield was lower than 2002 (regarded as low itself). Santa Rita vines started early in 2003, coming out of dormancy almost a month early. Persistent above-average temperatures pushed the fruit to ripen quickly. The ensuing prolonged time on the vine allowed the fruit develop richness and complexity
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2003 Pinot Noirs: Au Bon Climat "Knox Alexander" Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Byron Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir Byron Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir Koehler Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir
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2003 Pinot Noirs: Au Bon Climat "Knox Alexander" Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Byron Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir Byron Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir Koehler Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir |
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